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If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. [links]
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Check out our video or read on if you prefer! First ensure your car is on flat, solid ground. Jacking your car on an incline or on soft grass/earth can put a lateral load on your jack/axle stands and cause them to fall over. Next, you need to check how much your car weighs. Look inside the door jambs for a sticker that looks like this: Check your owners manual for an explanation of what the weights mean for your specific car. On our Golf this is what the weights relate to: [links]
If you're doing any sort of work or inspection on a car that requires you to put part or all of your body underneath it, you need axle stands. Why? because if the car fell on you because your jack failed or the car slipped off it, at best you'd be seriously injured and at worst, it could kill you. We don't mean to be sensationalist but most modern cars weigh in excess of a tonne and a half and your squishy human body simply can't support that kind of weight. Jacks rely on mechanical or hydraulic mechanisms to raise the vehicle off the ground, over time it's possible for these mechanisms to wear. it doesn't happen very often but they can fail altogether. More commonly a jack might move on its wheels, causing the car to slip off or with scissor or bottle jacks the movement of the vehicle as it raises can put sufficient lateral load on the jack to cause it to topple over. Axle stands don't have any hydraulic or mechanical moving parts to wear out. They are designed specifically for supporting a vehicle and have a wide stable footprint. Long story short - they're a lot less likely to fail or fall over and as a result are a lot safer, so it's a very good idea to use them! What you need: more
So you need to ensure the equipment you're using to lift and support the vehicle exceeds the weights on the sticker/handbook for your car. To be on the safe side we'd recommend using jacks and axle stands that are rated in excess of the total vehicle weight rather than just the weight of the heaviest axle. Next, put the handbrake on, put the car into gear (or park if it's an auto) and turn off the engine. You then need to chock the wheels as an extra precaution to prevent the car from rolling when you start to jack it up. If you're jacking the rear of the car, chock the front wheels and if you're jacking the front, chock the rear wheels. [links]
When we're working on cars or filming DIY videos for our Youtube Channel we quite often have to use axle stands to support the car. For the sake of watch-ability, it's a process that we just skip over in the videos but it's such a safety-critical thing that we thought we'd show you how it's done- How to support your car safely on Axle Stands.
Check your owners manual to find where the jacking points are located on your car. On our car there is also a little arrow on the sill moulding to indicate where the jacking points are. Jack the car to the desired height. If you are able to place the axle stand at the jacking point that would be ideal but quite often there won't be room for both the jack and the stand. If that's the case then you need to find another solid point under the car to position the stands. This will vary from car to car but ideally, you want to go for the strongest accessible point - either a chassis rail or a subframe or suspension mounting point. Don't be tempted to use the engine sump or the floor pan as points for axle stands, despite being large flat surfaces they are not strong enough and you could do serious damage to the car or engine if you use these points to support the car. When you have a suitable place to position the stands, raise it to the desired height (if yours are adjustable) and insert the locking pin. Lower the jack slowly and carefully until the weight of the car is transferred to the stand. If you're removing a wheel from the car you can also slide that underneath the sill as an extra safety measure. If you're jacking the other side of the car or all 4 corners, the process is the same, just proceed with caution, take your time and always work with another person where possible. more
Holdon plastic clips are a great way to supplement the fixed eyelets in a tarpaulin. They can be fitted along any edge just where you need them and are a good way to snug down the cover. more
If you don’t have axle stands, bricks can be used but make sure they’re stable. Wooden pads between the bricks and metal helps protect the trailer galvanizing. [links]
Positive thinking, however, can only get you so far. You might be envious of those who boast of bringing their cruiser ‘back home for the winter’ but with larger craft it’s often a case of you’ve either got the space or you haven’t.
Don’t forget the trailer winch either. A basic cover will stop the webbing strop degrading and prevent the metal parts corroding. This one is just held down with a piece of shock cord. Remember to grease the winch and the trailer jockey wheel before storing for the winter.
Would a 2 ton trolley jack (for example), be capable of lifting a car that is say, 2.5 tonnes?
It’s really important to get the most suitable jack and stands for your vehicle, which can cope with lifting your vehicle into a position for you to do work. You must never use a jack, stands, or any lifting equipment, that isn't strong enough to support your vehicle.
Put chocks under the tyres of the opposite side you are working on- for example, chocks under the rear wheels if you are lifting the front end of the vehicle, or chocks under the front wheels if you are lifting the rear. These will greatly reduce the risk of your vehicle rolling off of the axle stands. here
The biggest issue is not really the location although that may be a close second. It is the type of jack you are using that will be the most important aspect of this process. There are a lot of good jacks you can use but you need to make sure they will fit in the right spot correctly and then give you a big enough lift. here
Another good option would be a good scissor jack. They fit into tight spaces and can easily be manipulated. Their weight capacity reaches 5000 pounds making them a nice alternative. [links]
One good selection would be the Unijack as they are small but strong. These jacks are capable of handling up to 6000 pounds. They are similar to a bottleneck jack but with a square design. [links]
The better spot would probably be between the 2 axles if your trailer is large enough to have dual axles at the rear. There is an I beam that rests there and it is a very easy-to-access spot that is safe for your trailer. more
There are actually quite a few good choices of jacks you can choose between. Most of them are quite small and should not take up a lot of storage space in your compartments. [links]