jnishioka11
12.06.2021 18:08:02
This article has been viewed 554,565 times. [links]
See full version: How to Check Your Fuel Pump
This article has been viewed 554,565 times. [links]
wikiHow marks an article as reader-approved once it receives enough positive feedback. This article has 12 testimonials from our readers, earning it our reader-approved status.
This article was co-authored by Jay Safford. Jay Safford is an Automotive Consultant and Project Manager. He is Automotive Service Excellence (ASE), NAFA Fleet Management Association, Ford, and L1 Certified. He has over 15 years of automotive repair experience and has served as an Automotive Instructor at the Lincoln Technical Institute in West Palm Beach, Florida. more
If you're struggling to accelerate, especially on the highway, or you notice other signs your car might not be getting enough gas, the problem can be caused by a partially blocked or clogged fuel line, fuel filter, pump, or injector. If your car won't start at all, there are a few quick tests you can run to figure out whether or not it's causing your problems.
[links]
Took the cooler (only) off and brought it home. On the bench I find that its just a block of metal (with ports), and two screws on each plate holding the fuel and water lines on. Looking at those. small (8mm) O-Rings. flattened out and a little brittle. Having already read about this as part of this forum and a few others I knew that checking Mercury was useless. and the assembly must be made of gold as a new unit goes for about $500.
Ok. so of all places, Lowes has O-rings that are the correct inner-diameter. They have two different thicknesses. the one that is closest in size is the #10, 5/16th Inner diameter and 1/16th thickness. ( I got those and the 3/32nd versions as well). I've installed the smaller rings and have reassembled the cooler. I pretty confident that this will work, but if not, I'll use the thicker rings. should take about 15 minutes to change them out. here
Went out about 3 days later for a cruise with my first-mate and when we pulled into our little cove and anchored up, smelled gas. Look over the transom and sure enough, a small fuel bloom. Started the engine again and saw that the thing was leaking. again. but this time it was kind of just gushing down the bottom rim of the cowling. [links]
Started as a VST problem. We have no trailer for the boat. it stays in the water at the marina until November where it goes into dry storage, so when the VST issue surface, I sailed around to that marina/mechanic. They spent a day or two on it. had to rework it a couple of times. then said its all fixed. here
So. (I know. this is becoming an epic). Put that all back together. head down to the marina and put the engine back together. Left the cowling off and started the engine. once it self-primed. it caught and ran like the champ that it is. and then. spraying out of the fuel cooler (attached to the VST) is fuel. A nice flat, fanned out spray. Very clearly coming from under the top plate of the cooler. Ok. tighted screws. didn't work.
Back to our slip. Came down the next day and removed the VST myself. took it home and dismantled it. thanks to a Youtube video, I knew exactly what to look for and frankly, the dismantling and cleaning were pretty easy. I found some deposits on key points in the pump. Specifically in the tube that comes off of the regulator and dumps back into the tank, as well as a hardened and crusty o-ring for same regulator. (Ordered parts - Amazon. $20 total). While waiting for those, I took time and cleaned the crap out of the other pieces of the VST. Found yet another piece of debris in the float valve that had caused IT to start sticking again.
This article has been viewed 219,748 times. here
This article was co-authored by our trained team of editors and researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness. wikiHow's Content Management Team carefully monitors the work from our editorial staff to ensure that each article is backed by trusted research and meets our high quality standards.
Changing the fuel filter is a part of regular maintenance. Keeping your fuel system properly maintained by changing the fuel filter prolongs the life of the fuel pump. Dirt in the fuel is captured by the filter which clogs over time, causing it to operate less efficiently. The clogged filter reduces fuel pressure and volume in the fuel system. If your vehicle is losing power, it could be a sign of a clogged fuel filter. Replace the filter at the manufacturer’s recommended interval.
Note: This guide applies to gasoline engine vehicles only. The fuel filters in diesel cars and trucks are usually much larger, and the whole fuel system is much more complex. Diesel engine fuel systems are also under a lot more pressure, with modern common rail systems producing over 1000 bar of pressure. Accidentally releasing such high pressure could result in injury.