lightbox
20.05.2021 0:35:27
You must be logged in to access attached files. more
See full version: 1957 Evinrude Big Twin Electric Start Hoods
You must be logged in to access attached files. more
Looks like those hoods are from manual start motors. The electric start had the evinrude script in the dark gray painted area and an “electric starting” script in the white painted area toward the rear. The front of the hood said “BigTwin Electric 35” instead of “Evinrude BigTwin 35”. I would paint the entire hood polychromatic blue, let it cure well, then paint the “bulged out” area on the sides with the white, then mask and add the gray to the appropriate areas. [links]
The forward pointing pins are for the Johnson hoods. [links]
The project is going back together, and if it actually runs and is deemed
viable to put to water, then I’ll need to address the hood.
The electric start parts motor was made whole via other motors, and
I never had the electric start model’s hood.
Is the only difference in the electric start and non-electric hoods for 57
the decals?
The motor came with a non original 6 volt starter motor, and I’m assuming
it’s mounted on the 6 volt starter bracket, as it has the brass, forward pointing
hood mount of some kind, which I don’t see on the 1957 parts diagram.
I adapted the starter bracket by drilling and tapping
a hole for the rubber cushioned hood side mount.
I test fit the non-electric hood prior to refurbishment of the motor,
using the adapted side mount, and it seemed like it would work okay.
Don't use any type of quick start, use some fuel mixture and squirt it into the carb.
If the owner will let you, check the lower unit for water, check the compression and spark. If those are all OK, anything can be fixed without much work. You will most likely have to overhaul the carb. You will also have to replace the water pump.
Even if you were handy at working on old outboards, it wouldn't be a great deal at $400 in non-running condition. Most guys that buy old stuff like this consider non-running motors as "parts motors" until proven otherwise, and pay accordingly. Great advice above, I just think in your case you may be getting more than you can handle. here
BTW------NO electric start. That'd be a deal breaker for any price, to me. You'll quickly find that the bigtwins aren't the easiest to pull start.
Just my opinion,
JBJ here
The Sea Horse was introduced by Johnson on January 12, 1929 to rave reviews at theNational Motor Boat Show in NYC. The Sea Horse was an innovative and trend-setting productthat would influence the design of outboard motors for decades to come. The Sea Horse, whichcame in both a two and four-cylinder model, featured a compression release charger for easierstarting, a rotary valve to increase the gas charge, and an underwater exhaust. In keeping withtheir desire to achieve speed, the Sea Horse set 26 of 39 world records for outboard motoring in1929 and 1930. here
Fuel shortages threatened the industry in the early 1980s and economical was the newbuzzword. Evinrude and Johnson both introduced 4 hp and 7 hp Worktwins. These smallwork horses were designed for non-stop operation in even the harshest waters. Although theeconomy remained weak, consumers rallied; driving sales of all OMC products up 39%. Thissurge in interest in marine products led to the introduction of the Sea Drive Power System, an outboard motor designed to replace inboards in larger boats. OMC had been working on the SeaDrive for two years before its launch in 1981. more
When an agreement could not be reached with these companies, OMC looked elsewhere;acquiring five boatbuilders between December 12, 1986 and February 13, 1987. The total cost ofthese acquisitions was $120 million. However, annual sales from the combined businesses hadbeen nearly $200 million in 1986 and had been steadily growing at a rate of 40% since 1982.This move to vertical integration helped OMC set a new earnings record of $1.2 billion in 1986and placed the company in a strong leadership position going into the next decade. By 1988,OMC had 14,000 employees in 28 US and 6 international plants. more
In 1922, Johnson introduced the Light Twin and the Waterbug. Both designs wonrecognition in the National Motor Boat Show that year and the company received orders for3,429 units. Each unit sold for $140. The following year, orders reached 7,000 units. As JohnsonMotor Company began to win acclaim and market share, other companies such as Evinrudebegan to feel the pressure. In 1922 Chris Meyer sold Evinrude Motors to a group of investors ledby Walter Zinn. Zinn introduced the 4-hp Big Twin in 1924. However, sales still did not rise forEvinrude Motors and the company was again sold to another group of investors led by AugustPetrie.
The war made manufacturers once again think of diversifying their product lines andOMC began to actively investigate the refrigeration business that they had inherited with theacquisition of Johnson. In 1937, twenty-five Johnson employees moved to Galesburg, IL toassemble refrigerators. Within a year, the facility was also producing air-conditioning units. Anew 70,000 square foot factory was built in 1939 and the entire Waukegan-based componentproduction moved to Galesburg to form a new operation called Gale Products. here
Next the recoil starter was removed, and it's mounting screws replaced into their holes so that, when re-assembly time came, there would be no confusion as to which screw goes where (same with the screws that secured the cowling.) Removing the cog from the top of the flywheel revealed the inspection hole that most of these old OMC's have, and through it one could see a very cracked pair of original equipment magneto coils. The one universal weekness of these 1950's OMC engines is that the coils always cracked, but they are not that big of a deal to replace. I was somewhat concerned about removing the flywheel, as it was probably a very long time since it had been removed (if ever) but the flywheel popped right off with the aid of a puller. I would suggest reviewing the magnetos column for info as to how to use the puller.
This engine is just a bit older than I suggest for "cheap power," but it is in nice original condition and is close-enough to the later OMC engines to still be of relevance to the reader. I intend to mount this engine on a fixxed-up 1956 Crestliner 14 foot "twin-cockpit' aluminum boat that I will be taking to meetings of the Antique and Classic Boat Society, a group that I recently joined.
Day Two; I removed about a dozen screws which held on the engine's cowlings (later engines have easier-to-remove cowlings) and set the cowlings aside where they would not get damaged. A compression test with the cylinders "dry" showed about 80 lbs of compression on each cylinder; adding about a teaspoon of 2-cycle oil to each cylinder did not change the readings much, a good sign as a significant rise in pressure with the oil added would tend to indicate problems with the piston rings. Don't ask me what the compression should be on this 50-year-old engine, as I haven't a clue, but the fact that both cylinders were very close on readings is a good sign. Pulling the rope produced the nice, deep-sounding "thunk-thunk" that I like to hear and I would not normally have even bothered with the compression gauge. If you want to use a gauge, get the kind that threads into the spark plug hole rather than the kind that one holds against the spark plug hole, unless you can count on having someone to help you. Pull the rope "briskly" 4 or 5 times and then check the gauge. Make sure the engine is mounted to something solid so it does not fall over (the cart shown was a lously mount for testing compression on.) here
As with the first "Start to Finish" series of columns, this series with deal with my taking an old outboard from "as-found" condition to running condition. As of this moment I have just started working on this engine so I do not know exactly how it will turn out; whatever happens, however, will be reported here. here
There is a sparkplug wire "retainer" mounted underneath one of the cylinder head bolts: do NOT remove the headbolt to free the sparkplug wires. Instead, twist this split retainer to open-up a gap in order to remove the sparkplug wires. NEVER disturb a head bolt unless you absolutely have to.