See full version: How to Install an Electrical Oil Pressure Gauge
Run a ground wire from the vehicle chassis to the ground post on the gauge; a poor ground can result in an inoperable gauge or false reading. Use an existing grommet in the firewall, or drill a hole in the body of the vehicle, and route the wire to the chassis or frame.
Choose a suitable location to mount the oil pressure gauge; mount the gauge so it is easily viewed while driving. Common mounting locations for aftermarket oil pressure gauges include under the dash, on top of the dash, or set into the dashboard.
Connect the signal wire to the sending unit and run it through a grommet in the firewall in close proximity to the gauge. Run the wire through the gauge panel hole, or the pre-drilled hole in the dashboard, allowing extra wire for easy connecting. here
Electric oil pressure gauges are easy for a DIY-mechanic to install, whether replacing a faulty oil pressure gauge, or a custom, after-market look is desired. Oil pressure gauges are designed to inform the driver when the oil falls below a safe operating level, or when the oil pressure is too high. Driving a vehicle without an oil pressure gauge can lead to catastrophic engine failure. Most oil pressure gauges come with mounting panels and the necessary installation hardware. The necessary hardware can be purchased from an auto parts dealer, if not included with the oil pressure gauge.
Connect the signal wire to the post on the back of the gauge. The gauge posts are marked for correct wire installation. [links]
Mount the gauge panel to the dash with a screwdriver and screws provided in the kit; set the gauge aside. This makes it easier to connect the wires. If mounting the gauge in the dash, drill a hole in the dash 1/8-inch larger in diameter than the size of the gauge.
The biggest challenge might be to get all the wiring through the rubber boots connecting the doors to the body. It is actually impossible with the earlier thin boot, which also connect to smaller holes than the later setup. more
Dave Shannon's pages contain many tips on common repairs, very well illustrated with pictures.
The regulators with the motors should just bolt in place of the original manual regulators. I highly recommend taking the whole wiring from a donor car. If the switches are positioned in the dash, then the armrest need not to be changed, but it might be hard to find the switches for the center console. more
I also saw a junk GT fitted with a shroud that connects the bottom of the panel behind the bumper (and under the grille/headlights) to the bottom of the radiator. Basically it separates the low-pressure area behind the spoiler (for reduced drag on the bottom of the car and reduced front end lift) from the high-pressure area in front of the radiator. Of course the GT airdam has no ventholes in the center like the later airdams, require the later panel that directs air up to the radiator.
The below CUSTOM gauge face overlays are designed to restore the look of these gauges if yours are faded or damaged.
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Below set: Style-A 200 km/h Original Restoration Style set.
This set of face overlays may be used for precise restoration of old gauge faces or may be used to convert from 130 MPH to 200 km/h set.
All odometer windows or "cut-outs" will be done for you before these are sent.
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