Test for a lean mixture as follows:[links]
See full version: Fuel Injection
Test for a lean mixture as follows:[links]
Injector Deposit Removal. [Inquiry: What is the best injector cleaner?] I've tried a few kinds but I found that removal and flushing of the injectors and replacement of the injector seals really is the best. I removed the injectors in my 85 245 Turbo (K-jet) and took them to a shop and they pressure tested and flushed them. Even with all the injector cleaner I ran through (some of it was pretty expensive), they were still really crudded up. After the flush they were like new. The flush and test cost $13.00, the seals (for my brick there was a thin one on the injector holder, and a fat doughnut one on the injector itself - not sure what your brick has) were $3.00 (?). Total cost is much less than bottles of injector cleaner that are (in my case) of limited help. I guess in really bad cases a new injector may be required, but not with my brick. Injector removal and installing was pretty straightforward - and I'm not all that handy with tools.
Idle Air Control Valve. See the FAQ section under Engine: Performance, Symptoms for information about cleaning, diagnosing, and rebuilding the IAC valve. here
Setting Base Idle Specs and Mixture on Bosch LH2.2-Equipped Cars.
Connect an accurate tachometer then warm up the engine. Let it idle in Park with a/c off. Pinch off the hose between the air intake and the IAC valve (don't damage the hose with something sharp!) Idle speed should drop below 500 rpm, or the engine may stop: both are normal. If idle speed does not drop, adjust as below.
Repairing Rubber Tubing Ends. [Inquiry] How do you replace the rubber ends on the hard plastic vacuum lines? I had one come apart and the rubber vacuum hose I have (Volvo original) fits the manifold fitting perfectly but is too large an ID to grip the hard plastic vacuum line. I know I can just replace the whole line with rubber, but I wanted to keep the plastic line. [Robert Ludwick] I've used some of that liquid rubber stuff that they sell for use for sealing electric fittings, it works great. here
Ceramic Fuse Kit for 240 and 260 Series
30-Piece Fuse Kit Contains: (15) 8-amp fuses, (10) 16-amp fuses, (5) 25-amp fuses
30 Piece fuse kit 3E1000
Other common issues
Heater core & heater control valves leaking into the interior
Worn out ignition switch resulting in the loss of some major electrical circuits
Failed wiring insulation on the main engine wiring harness 1982-1985
odometer/tripmeter repair kit 240 series 1986-93 13200 [links]
Since there is no need for a VR conditioner or onboard coil driver, you can use the V2.2, V3.0, or V3.57 board. more
You must also set the initial position of the trigger (called the ‘trigger offset’), then check it using the Trigger Wizard in MegaTune (Tools Menu). The trigger offset setting will vary according to your distributor position (where it is in rotation) but you’ll need to set it properly… Basically you use the Trigger Wizard and adjust the ‘trigger offset’ and/or twist your distributor until the advance number in the Trigger Wizard matches what you’re reading with your timing light. The +/- buttons on the trigger wizard will adjust your trigger offset. You’ll need to use these buttons and a timing light to make the number on your light, and the big number on the left in the Trigger Wizard, match up. here
Mod kits discussed in this article:
These car can use just about anything in the Megasquirt family, although the V2.2 can limit your injector options unless you use the flyback board. The Megasquirt-I V3.0 (or V3.57) will work well for a good basic system. The Megasquirt-II can provide a better idle if you are running very large injectors, so it can be useful on high boost buildups but not required. You will be able to use your existing sensors except for the MAP sensor which is built into the Megasquirt.
Using the Volvo service manual isn’t hard: just look for the subject described below (like the engine, bodywork or cooling system) and click on the link to open the service manual for that subject. At the index you can find at which page the information can be found where you’re looking for and scroll down to get to the right page. more
The service & repair manual of the Volvo 200-series is divided into categories, which contains multiple sections / groups. Just look up the category you’re looking for and click on the subject to view the workshop manual (it will open in a new window/tab). here
This group contains the Volvo 240 & 260 service & repair manuals for the engines (redblocks, PRV and diesel-engines), carburated and fuel injection systems and other engine components like the cooling system.
Volvo 240 & 260 7.500 mile maintenance & service for modelyear 1984 (can also be used for all other modelyears, for the engines until 1985)