[ruenma7411]

The hot pump is likely to fail soon unless you change something to save it. At least get a spare pump so you can replace it quickly.

[muftimoh]

I hope I have addressed your question..

[Differance]

just for reference, i have closed cooling and both old and new pumps are models 21608511 here

[Dave Kimble]

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[danknug]

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[gtwickline]

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[preventhrtattack1]

I'm thinking along your line of thought - that the filter / seperator is most likely the issue, in-carb filter and/or the fuel itself (ethanol, water, etc). Check your fuel quality and replace both filter cartridges (seperator & in-carb filters). that would be my first course of action. more

[Waterfox]

Craven, Not a one time problem. Started out that way. I also bypassed all of the separators with a fresh tank of fuel out of a 6 gallon can. Runs extremely rough. You may be correct that it is something else.

[Binford 6100]

Fuel pump is rarely the problem, especially since it was a one-timer sitch. But it is always good to have a spare handy. [links]

[BeeCee1]

Thank you for the replies and help. I will order a new hi pressure pump and will get the gauges figured out to measure pressure. Thank you all for the replies and if anyone has any other thoughts keep them coming.

[cdiet123]

The short story was that I burned the valves (engine was lugging and I was over proped). I would do a compression check and see if you have done the same. Went to F3's and have not had a problem with the engine sence. Twice I had the same problem and coming back to Seward from Montague at 5 mph on the Honda 9.9 is no fun, about 11 hrs.

[jasonlandmark66]

Wet plugs indicate an over-rich condition, weak spark, weak compression or poor fuel quality or a combination of things. Externaly checking for spark is not exactly reliable. Secondary ignition has to overcome a compressed atmosphere in the combustion chamber, ie; 9:1 compression ratio= 9 atmospheres compressed, requires a great deal more energy for the spark to make the jump across the gap of the spark plug relative to what is required in the atmosphere that you are breathing, but a visual can still be of worth. Was the spark orange or blue in color? Did anyone insert a screwdriver into the spark plug or ignition coil boot and hold off a couple inches from the engine block to check how far the spark could "jump to ground"? Has anyone pulled the distributor cap and inspected it and the rotor for corossion or cracks, the ignition coil? This is where engine temp, particularly if the failure is consistant with temp., comes in. The ignition control module or pickup coil on the distributor may be making and breaking a circuit under temp changes, VERY common on the older HEI systems, not as common on the HEI system in that engine must certainly worth consideration, however corossion. particularly in a salt environment, is a definite concern.

[markm]

The motor was professionally installed by a shop in Juneau. We have run the diagnostics software, followed the appropriate flow chart in the manual, changed the plugs, changed numerous sensors, replaced the batteries, checked and re-crimped the battery leads and connections, added a fuel primer bulb (which is always pumped prior to a cold start), charged the batteries, and checked the fuses. I'm starting to think maybe there is a problem with the ECM itself? We are running out of things to check, change, and look at. Any ideas?

[Dennis]

The main problem is that is has a tendency to run very well on the outward leg of a trip. However, usually after sitting over night or at least several hours it won't start. Typically when it won't start, it cranks over, has spark (visual confirmation, however haven't checked all cylinders at once), and is getting fuel into the cylinders (plugs are wet and pump is pumping fuel). The ECM isn't throwing any codes either, we have the diagnostic program and all the parameters appear normal.