[michaelp]

Thermostat Replacements.

[loungedaddy]

For the 700-style system, if the cooling fan runs at all after shutdown then that's almost certainly a bad relay. For 900's the relay (black, with three connectors going into the bottom) is under the hood on the rad housing near the battery (driver side for turbo's, otherwise passenger side). For early 700's the relay should be leftmost in the front row of the relay tray or later 700s on the passenger strut tower. In all these scenarios we're only talking about a bad relay that's stuck open or internally shorted. A bad relay could also be dead resulting in no cooling fan at all -the dash temp needle will climb into the red zone in such a case.

[jojobeans]

Coolant Sensor Loose in Replacement Metal Radiator.

[BitterTea]

Thanks for that info, sounds pretty smart. Is this the kind of thing that maybe isn't surprising with a take-off bolt-back-on situation? No weeping, took it off, bolted it back on, weeping now. Maybe not unheard of?

here

[dlapine]

Thanks for that info, sounds pretty smart. Is this the kind of thing that maybe isn't surprising with a take-off bolt-back-on situation? No weeping, took it off, bolted it back on, weeping now. Maybe not unheard of? here

[FrY10cK]

We replaced the gasket inside the water pump housing and replaced the gasket on the water pump itself, poured a few gallons in the engine and saw a steady dribble out of a hole in the right side of the water pump, at the edge of the block closest to the coolant filter. (pic attached)

[sunglasses]

What uh. what would cause water to come out of this hole?

[gene]

It could have started leaking from the added pressure of the fixed gasket leak and turning on the Coolant Valve back on. [links]

[Jameson]

The water pump ensures that enough coolant liquid is flowing around the cooling system and engine in order to remove sufficient heat to prevent the engine overheating. The higher the load on the engine, the more the pump will circulate in order to deal with the greater levels of heat produced as the engine works harder. more

[franklions99]

K-Seal can repair most leaks in your engine’s water pump casing and seals.

[dragon]

There will always be some water pumps that malfunction unexpectedly for a variety of reasons and therefore have to be fixed or replaced completely. One main issue that can be encountered, and which K-Seal is capable of fixing, is the casing developing a leak. This allows coolant to escape which means it doesn’t circulate through the engine and bring its temperature down. here

[ueleniacostae]

Inside the pump is an impeller (which might be made of either metal or plastic) with blades that push the coolant through the pump and out around the engine. The impeller is then mounted on a shaft with a seal assembly supporting it and allowing it to work without being impeded in any way. more

[europazuz]

You have the option of removing that spring and replacing it with a similar sized o-ring. The internal diameter of the o-ring is what is important – use one with the same ID as the garter spring. The o-ring will not corrode and not weaken over time. This will give your pump seals a longer life. It is possible to order seals with o-rings instead of garter springs, but that requires some legwork to find the correct part. I find it simpler to just order the Johnson pump seals and replace the garter springs myself. [links]

[Johnsmiths]

Step 7. Reinstall the shaft and bearings. Don’t put the seals back on the shaft until you reinstall it in the pump body. Reinstalling the shaft is the reverse of taking it off. Place it on your pump body support with the shaft hole in it (the 2” PVC pipe in my case here) – only this time it is placed upside down compared to last time. You will be installing the shaft from the rear of the pump body. Using a block of wood and hammer, line up the bearings as straight as possible and very gently tap the shaft down. Again, don’t wang on it! If you do, the bearings will go in crooked and you will have a much larger problem on your hands. Gently tap it and the shaft will align straight as the bearings go into the housing. [links]

[BillyBobBob]

Step 6 (optional). Modify the new seals. This picture shows a new seal next to an old one. These lip seals contain a garter spring in them that helps to hold the lip in compression on the shaft. The problem with these springs in this application is that they corrode and lose their functionality. The next picture shows the corroded remains of the spring from our old water seal, along with the sprung spring from the oil seal. [links]

[yommys01]

Step 8. Install the new seals. The new seals need to be carefully and straightly pressed into the pump body. Put some grease on the shaft to help prevent damaging the seal lips and slide the oil seal onto the shaft with the open end facing down (aft) and closed end facing up (forward). Use an appropriate-sized deep socket and mallet to very gently tap the seal down into the body. [links]

[Eivind Nag]

Next, place the spacer on the shaft with the legs down toward the oil seal and the flat part up toward the water seal. Place the o-ring on top of the spacer. [links]