Anaxagoras
07.06.2021 22:18:56
Re: correct size fuel line - Yammy 115 [links]
See full version: Correct size fuel line - Yammy 115
Re: correct size fuel line - Yammy 115 [links]
Re: correct size fuel line - Yammy 115
Go with 3/8" or better. Just because it's there, doesn't mean it will use it.<br /><br />Outboards cannot be starved!
hello<br /> the original fuel line was 8mm or about5/16ths. it will run fine on it. the tempo primers dont like sun. be aware. the float should not react like that in the tank. could be the float strainer screen is not installed correctly or its clogged.<br /> you would have to watch it as you tilt the motor down is the tank still full? your symtoms are abnormal and would bear a look. ifyou attempt to remove it be aware that the strainer gasket must be recovered and replaced each time the strainer is removed and the vent hole in the srainer must go over the flat on the sensor. I drain the tank through the water trap before removal to prevent trash from going down the pump intake line.<br /><br /> good luck and keep posting more
Re: correct size fuel line - Yammy 115 more
Re: correct size fuel line - Yammy 115 more
At the time this problem started, he was running on the hull tank and has since gone to a 6 gallon above deck tank, all fuel supply/components are fresh and new.
I'll also be recommending a REAL filter for this thing, much before the engine, like a 10 micron Racor? Suggestions? [links]
This problem started when he towed someone out of some muck and pumped some muck through the engine. He said that the engine was still pumping fine but he replaced the pump anyway. He didn't hear any alarms.
I have a little over 3 hours on the engine now so I can run for brief periods at wot. Tops out at 6250 with just me in boat. Dealer was with me (he is a regular size person) and rpm only dropped about 50. The boat is a Triton 18' bay boat, 92" wide and weighs 1700 lbs. empty, gas tank was full (44 gallons). Looks like top speed is going to be in mid-40's similar to other test boat reports at the Suzuki web site. I am sure you could prop it up and get more top end, but when I fill up the bait tank in the front, and the 30' gallon shad tank in the rear, the lower pitched prop is probably better.<br /><br />Frank, the Ficht 175 would push the boat about 10 mph faster, but the hole shot on the four stroke is much better. Incidentally, I had the Ficht 175 on a Stratos 285 Pro Elite (19') and it would GPS at 68.4 with just me in the boat (25" blade Renegade, hydraulic jack plate with engine height maxed out).<br /><br />The new four stoke makes a much better balanced combination, maybe because the gearcase is smaller.
I have been looking also. A local dealer who sells both claims the Suzuki never needs maintenance, except routine. I just read where Yamaha is number 1 in customer satisfaction. I have 2 yamahas and not a bit of trouble. One is 15 HP 4 stroke (200l), and the other is a C85 2 stroke (93model). Still can't make up my mind.
catfishhunter:<br />I'm on 2nd Suzuki. I had a 55hp 2 stroke which I liked alot but had to replace after an oil injector line came loose (my own fault) and cooked the upper cylinder. Upgraded to a 2000 70hp 4 stroke which is a beautiful engine to operate. It's EFI so it starts with the turn of a key, very economical, extreemly quite and has lots of power and excellent throttle response. After having the 4 stroke I would not go back to the 2 stroke. If you can't find a close Suzuki dealership buy a new Johnson or late model evinrude 4 stroke since they are just repainted Suzuki's. here
Suzuki's are very good motors. The dealer network is kind of sparse and I have heard complaints of very long parts deliveries.
Hi guys, <br />I have only had one Suzuki, and it never needed parts.. (mid 80's 40HP 2stroke). unitl I hit a submerged log and needed new engine mounts and throttle assembly, after trying for a while, I gave up, sold it to an outboard wrecker and bought a Johnson.<br /><br />aero320, how is the power output compared to the ficht it replaced. <br /><br />I think aero has the right idea.. get the Johnsuki.. you have a much better chance of getting parts..<br /><br />I used to race suzuki motorcross bikes.. and they have never been all that good at parts supply for their own equipment.. but the badge engineered brands, (suzi engines in others equipment) never seem to run out of parts..<br /><br />Over here, I had no end of trouble sourcing some parts for a Suzuki Swift.. but I went to Holden (GMC in Australia) and bought the Holden barina parts, same engine, same parts except i could now get them and they were cheaper to boot.<br /><br />Johnsuki engines will get Bombardier support, and that must be a billion dollar deal suzuki would lose if the big B became displeased with them..<br /><br />Big B has a better chance of suppling you parts then Suzuki themselves..<br /><br />However, from what I have heard around the traps.. you are not likely to need much in the way of parts.. (although you probably heard the same thing about the ficht right. )<br /><br />rgds<br /><br />Frank more
I just repowered my Triton 18' center console bayboat with a Johnson 140 four stroke (Suzuki DF 140). and ran it for about 3 hours yesterday as a breakin. There are not many Suzuki dealers around here, however, Bombardier gets their four strokes from Suzuki. The engine replaced a Ficht 175 Ficht that has lost its last cylinder under my ownership.<br /><br />My original engine controls, etc. were plug and play for the new engine. I was able to get the engine through my local Johnson/Evinrude dealer who has provided excellent service through the years.<br /><br />It idles so quietly, that you can hardly tell when it is running. The engine has excellent low end power, is very strong in mid-range and works well on top end. My boat seems to handle very well with this set-up also.<br /><br />I am going fishing this afternoon and will run the engine a little more.<br /><br />You might also go to www.suzukimarine.com. They have lots of videos on that site and several boat tests using their engines on a variety of different boats. more
Take out the carbs. Take off the linkage on the bottom of the carbs, remove the springs and arms on the bottom of the throttle shaft. Take a heat gun to the top and bottom of the throttle butterfly where the shaft goes through the carb body. Do not use a torch for this. I don't want anybody blowing their face off. There is gas in those things, a heat gun is dangerous enough. Heat up the carbs one at a time with the heat gun and manipulate the throttles individually to see which one(s) is / are binding. This will allow you to identify which ones need fixing and which ones don't. here
Back in the day. seadoo switched to TC-w oils. but after one year. they switched back. ('89/'90) Polaris did the same thing. In the mid 90's. they switch to TC-w3 for the new "Domestic" engine. After a bunch of failures (under warranty) they switched back to API-TC oils. more
That's it. Now just reassemble and reinstall and you should be good to go. If you sanded enough off the throttle shaft and out of the hole in the carb body, your sticky throttle will be fixed.
Before reassembling the carbs, take some sandpaper and sand the throttle shafts lightly in the area where they were binding. You will be able to see marks on the throttle shaft in the correct area. Also sand the carb body where the throttle shaft runs through. Sand it down a little, sand it some more with a real fine grit so that it's not a rough surface, and test fit it. Hit it with a heat gun again and see if it still binds. If so, sand more. If not, you're ready to reassemble. Eventually, you'll be able to get it good and hot with no binding. That's when it's fixed. Don't take too much off though, you don't want any play in this area, only enough clearance for the bushing to expand with heat, without binding.
Take the screws to the local "good" hardware store / bolt supply store. Around here it's suburban bolt and supply. Aco, Ace, Tru Value probably won't have these. They are metric and they are tiny (3mm x 0.5mm pitch x 7mm Long Flat head) . Pick up a bunch of new ones. Twice as many as you need, in case you lose a couple or strip a couple. Make sure the new ones are as long as the old ones were before you started grinding on them. [links]