Daniel
31.05.2021 7:42:36
I was shocked at how much water was in the tank. Reading online, some people said the fuel cap could allow water in, but I have mine pretty snug, and it is brand new. here
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I was shocked at how much water was in the tank. Reading online, some people said the fuel cap could allow water in, but I have mine pretty snug, and it is brand new. here
The only thing I can think is condensation from moist air (hot during day and cool at night). I had this happen on the old portable tank. I know the simple answer is always keep the tank full to prevent condensation but I want to make sure I am not missing something simple. here
So this might be a very basic question, but should the gas tank vent prevent / reduce condensation in the tank?
So my question is, could I have a bad vent? Any suggestions on what else to check?
I just replaced my rotted out aluminum tank on a 1720 Sportsman. I put new gas in, and used about 1/2 a tank on a 19 gallon plastic Moeller. I replaced everything expect the vent (all new lines, fuel filter, filler assembly).
Before the handful of plywood-lovers reading this column come after me with chop saws, let me tell you: I love plywood too, and if I were building a one-off boat for my rapidly approaching old age, I’d build it out of top-quality marine plywood, for the same reasons 20th-century boatbuilders used it for coring. Choosing a design that can be planked with sheets of plywood makes for a faster build and a tighter hull with minimal seams, and cold-molding the hull with narrow strips of plywood laid atop one another in epoxy resin creates the curves typical of plank-on-frame construction, but stronger, lighter and tougher. The problem with plywood comes from sealing it in fiberglass, and then letting in water.
Core patch prepped for filler and resin. more
So, a word to the wise: Maybe it’s time to invest in an ounce of prevention and buy a moisture meter and learn how to use it before a wet core sinks your boating budget. Either that, or get real friendly with a skilled local surveyor. Both options are more expensive than a “For Sale” sign, of course, but a lot cheaper than paying for the repair.
The same goes for the ballast. here
A boat’s ballast is usually a metal weight or other heavy cargo placed in the hull of a ship that is sealed off and allows the vessel to have weight on the bottom.
Think for a moment of a beach ball in a pool. If you blow up a beach ball and place it in the water, you could easily tap the ball, and it would twist, turn, and possibly even go upside down from the force.
For example, a cargo ship that hauls thousands of tons of shipping containers is going to need a complex system of piping and pumping of water in and out of the ballast water tank at the bottom of the ship in order to keep it as steady as possible. more
The ballast was used in early shipbuilding by using rocks, gravel, or sand in the bottom of a boat in order to keep that weight distribution properly managed. here
Proper storage and care of a PWC is key in ensuring a longer life for the vessel. [links]
You insert the hose where the water has accumulated, then pull the plug upwards to fill the tube with water. Next, remove the pump and hose, and deposit the water outside of the craft.
It is useful to tilt the nose of the PWC upwards so that it is at a higher point than the tail to allow easier draining by making use of simple gravity to assist the process.
You can also blow dry the area with a leaf blower or my favorite toy, the Master Blaster (seriously, it’s the most useful power tool I’ve ever bought from Amazon on recommendation from a car collector.)