See full version: How to Remove Air From Fuel Lines in a Fuel Injected Engine
Once you have removed the tubing, clean it well and place it in a clear container filled with water. Blow into 1 end of the tubing and look for any bubbles in the water. If you see bubbles there are holes, and you will need to replace the tubing with new tubing. here
Check to make sure there aren't pinholes in your fuel tubing. You can consult your automotive manual, or get the assistance of someone who is mechanically savvy if you are not. Locate your fuel tubing, and remove it. more
Locate your mounting screws. Again, consult your automotive manual or a professional if necessary. Remove the screws and place the tubing above and below each screw. Tighten the screws securely in place.
Another reason you may have air bubbles in your fuel line is due to vibration. An easy fix to this is to insulate your mounting screws with fuel tubing. [links]
Along with the joy and freedom of owning your own vehicle come the difficulties of repairs and maintenance. If you want to keep enjoying the delight of the open road, you'll need to know how to diagnose or fix a few things, or know a great mechanic. Here are a few ways to remove air from a fuel line, a truly problematic experience. Air bubbles in a fuel line can lead to stalling, hiccuping or refusal to start. Keep your fuel lines free of air to help keep your car running smoothly.
I'd say that, looking at this thread, you have a loose coupling in your fuel line somewhere. This may have been caused by presumably disconnecting and reconnecting the lines when the fuel was drained or it may be that the petrol has eroded a gasket / seal. here
I'd suggest following the advice in the penultimate post of the link I've posted, namely.
I put 17 liters of petrol in my Renault kangaroo it already had 8 liters of diesel in it had it drained by mechanic put 12 liters diesel in it took a while but did start and run well until I got 3 miles away there is a lot of air going through the pipes.renault kangoo
You will need to have the fuel pump properly bled to get the air out - the three miles you got was probably down to fuel already in the pipes. I would have expected the mechanic who drained the tank to have re-bled the system after refilling. here
isolate flow and return fuel lines from the tank. fit pressure gauge to system and manually pressurize. if system does not holding constant pressure for 10-15mins, carefully work your way along the fuel lines to find culprit and replace. it may be something as simple as a union needing tightening up. pay attention to the injectors and injector rail, and any flexible fuel lines.
Allocate approximately 20 minutes for the engine to sit if flooding occurs while bleeding the fuel lines. Repeat the process if needed until the fuel lines are completely free of air.
Locate the fuel filter. The filter can be found by tracing the fuel lines back to where they reach the engine filter. In cases where a fuel injection pump is involved, follow the fuel lines until you arrive at the pump. A majority of diesel fuel injectors and filters have a screw specifically designed to bleed the fuel lines. Utilize a screwdriver to loosen the screw. here
Vehicles and tools powered by gas that have been stored for awhile must have their fuel lines bled so any air is removed before being used again. Fuel lines containing air can cause the engine to not run properly. Generally, air is introduced to the fuel lines when there is a leak or during fuel draining for equipment storage. Very little mechanical knowledge is required when bleeding fuel lines.
Start the engine but do not allow air into the system. Have a friend turn the key in the ignition to “Start” for approximately 3 seconds. While your friend “starts” the engine, place one hand on top of the carburetor air intake. At this point your hand should get wet from the fuel. Repeat this step three times.
Fill the fuel tank with gasoline to cause pressure to build within the fuel lines.
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Ok, that (to me) is an indication that there's something wrong inside the tank. Maybe a split line, or a stuck clunk.
So let's analize a little further. more
I have been searching for an air bubble problem for a week and the tank has been out more often than Britney’s panties have been down. more
Well, obviously you can't fit a big bubble in a fuel line, so "Tiny" is not the best description. more
Fig. 1 - A small amount of foamy bubbles the pool to the top of the fuel line and either remain still or move very slowly.
Well, after doing some carb cleaning again, boat started right up, ran perfect on the muffs -- put it in the lake, started hard, worked hard to keep it running -- didn't get full rpms. Pulled the hood off, and I see all kinds of air bubbles in the clear fuel lines. While I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer, this doesn't seem right. So, the troubleshooting starts again.
Doesn't seem like the bulb pumps up hard -- replaced it (again). Pulled the gas line off the fuel filter, pumped into a cup, to get the air out of the fuel lines -- reconnected to the fuel filter, seems like it pumped the air out this time. Let it sit for a few minutes, and there's bubbles in the clear lines under the engine cover again. I've replaced both 'ends' on the gas line that goes from the tank to the engine -- what normally goes on these things, the tank fitting, engine fittings? Do the male fittings on the gas tank ever get worn enough that they need replacing? They are both steel tanks, which don't allow for simple changing of the fitting -- seems like it's an 'all-in-one' piece.