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12.05.2021 9:01:03
If you apply the gel coat too early, you’ll end up having to sand the layer down before you can add any additional layers. more
See full version: Repairing Fiberglass On Boats (Complete Beginner; s Guide)
If you apply the gel coat too early, you’ll end up having to sand the layer down before you can add any additional layers. more
Be careful when repairing cracks in your hull, as they could be a sign of bigger structural issues. here
With these fabrics, you’ll also have different weights.
If you have a large area to do, you’ll be tempted to make larger batches but don’t do this as you’ll only end up rushing the job or finding the resin sets up prematurely. here
If your transom is completely rotten it shouldn't be too hard to remove the old plywood and get to the hull. But in my case only about the bottom half was rotten and the top half was still pretty solid. more
If that's the case it is harder to remove that solid plywood. What I ended up doing was borrowing a small handheld planer from my dad's furniture shop and planing it off little by little. This worked very well. here
Now my boat has inboard power and the transom is closed all the way up. If your boat has an outboard you might actually replace the whole transom including the fiberglass on the outside.
This is probably the hardest part of the entire process. Removing the old transom and getting it down to a smooth flat surface ready for new plywood again. I used a hammer and chisel, small pry bar, and the planer to get it out. here
If you are on a personal connection, like at home, you can run an anti-virus scan on your device to make sure it is not infected with malware. more
If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. here
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The next step was to install the aft face of the mold which is the engine mounting face. I figured the top of this piece to equal the mounting height of the engines. So using a a 1 in 12 rise the cavitation plate should be 2.5" above the bottom on the hull for a 30" set back. That being said the top edge of the mold is 32.5 " above the bottom of the hull for 30" shaft motors. I added some 2x stiffeners to the outside faces to hold everything flat. I also added legs to the bottom on the mold supports to prevent sagging. [links]
My first task was to reinforce the transom. I removed all old parts and pieces and ground the glass to expose clean glass. My first task was to add two skins of 1700 biax. All laminating and glue work was done with epoxy that Joel sells on this site.
I choose to build the bracket directly on the boat in order to avoid 150 bolts going through the transom. Clearly someone else will own this boat if that bracket needs to come off My first task was to build a mold on the back of the boat that would define the shape of the bracket. I straightened two 2x6s and beveled the top edge to allow them to set vertical against the bottom of the hull. I decided to have the bracket set the engines back 30" from the transom so the 2x extended back 30" from the transom. I mitered the end of the 2x6s to match the angle of the transom. I would later use that face to mount the back portion of the mold. I made the "tub" of the bracket 48" wide which seems typical to other manufactured brackets. It allows the 250s to mount on 28.5" centers in accordance with Yamaha's specified spread. I had one 2x on centerline which would help set the angle on the bottom of the bracket and support the two bottom mold pieces.
I recently bought a 28 Bertram with the intent of installing a pair of 250 Yamahas on it. I wanted to either hang the engines on the transom as the boat in the first picture did or hang them on a bracket as the boat in the second photo did. Either configuration required transom work. I decided to do the bracket in order to retain cockpit space but I will say I prefer the look of the engines on the transom.
Now that the mold is together I added wax filets in the corners to allow the glass to bend on a smooth radius. I used 3/8". You can also use clay to do this and it works just fine also. Once this was done I was ready to start laying up. I used all 1700 as it was what I had. I would have built thickness much faster with 1708! Anyway I did 10 plys on the transom and bottom and eight on the sides. [links]