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22.04.2021 3:32:40
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If you are at an office or shared network, you can ask the network administrator to run a scan across the network looking for misconfigured or infected devices. [links]
I’ll email you with details if you like, but really its pretty straightforward. The stock wiring has the interior lights (except overhead sink light in westy), the cig lighter, the lcd clock, the radio (if wired properly) all on the circuit protected by fuse #3. If you want to power that circuit from aux battery then you would lead a fused wire up to fuse box and connect it to the lower tab of the #3 fuse slot (fuse removed). Terminating the wire with a male spade terminal allows you to connect there. My modification moves that wire that comes from the aux battery, to the back of the fuse panel and connects to the pin labelled E3. This pin is part of a group of pins that mates with the plastic multiconnector “E”. So to do my mod, you need a terminal on the aux wire that will go into that plastic multiconnector, its a molex type connector (see here https://shufti.wordpress.com/2010/02/28/multi-prong-connector-tool/).
If you can live with the aux battery wire just connecting to the front of the panel via a male spade (0.25″ wide I think) into the lower slot of fuse#3 spot, then that would be the simplest and easiest thing to do.
#1 by Simon on January 19, 2011 - 8:52 pm
#6 by albell on May 9, 2011 - 10:27 am more
Install the inside toggle switch where convenient. Remove the radiator fan relay from the fuse and relay box on the fender well. Test the relay terminals for power with the ignition key off (use the voltmeter). There will be one terminal that has power with the key off. Mark this terminal on a piece of paper so it can be used later.
A radiator fan requires an average of 15 amps to operate. The fan uses a relay in the fuse relay box under the hood. The relay has four terminals--one that is hot all the time, even with the key off. A second terminal becomes hot only when the key is on. This is the terminal that actuates the relay. This terminal cannot be used for the fan because it is designed to carry low amperage from the key, and if the fan is attached to it, a fire could result because the wire is too small for the amperage required. The fan must have a 10-gauge wire to carry this amount of amperage. You need to hard wire the radiator fan to a toggle switch on the dash in such a manner that the fan will shut off when the ignition key is off. The fan can also be turned off manually when cruising to extend the life of the fan.
Place a jumper wire across the terminal that had power with the key off and the terminal that was dead and did not go to ground. This is the fan hot wire. Set the voltmeter to volts and check the fan wires to see which of the two is the power wire. Mark this wire or remember which one it is. more
So by that reckoning, 10AWG is not enough. :'(, that or I have to use a 10A fuse and hope that fridge draw is within that. [links]
whats the spec on the fridge?
Wired my fridge in yesterday then had some thoughts (/worries) about whether I've used the correct gauge wire for it, given the fact it's wired from a fuse box in the side panel.
The ground is just run back to the fuse box (shared bus bar). [links]