fuzeman
07.05.2021 16:33:51
Solution #3: Check your battery cables and make sure they are in good shape. Bad cables will not deliver the full current flow needed operate the starter.
See full version: Solving Common Aftermarket Starter Problems
Solution #3: Check your battery cables and make sure they are in good shape. Bad cables will not deliver the full current flow needed operate the starter.
Solution #2 (Ford only): Confirm that your starter was designed to work with your transmission. Ford uses two different offset starters, depending on the transmission being used. here
Solution #3 (Chevy only): Confirm that your starter was made for your flexplate or flywheel. Chevy engines uses two different tooth count flexplate/flywheels—the 153-tooth and the 168-tooth. here
Problem: Starter does not fit with my headers.
Further muddying the water, these devices are located in different places on different vehicles. And some manufacturers use both a relay and a solenoid in the ignition system. In that case, the relay will trigger the solenoid. Most often, a true starter relay is a small black cube plugged into an electrical fuse/relay box in the engine compartment, whereas a starter solenoid is (in most cases) attached directly to the starter on the engine (although it is sometimes located elsewhere in the engine compartment). here
4. Sometimes a bad starter solenoid, instead of preventing the engine from starting, may cause it to start on its own without the key being turned to the “start” position.” This less-common problem can be dangerous and should be addressed immediately.
5. If the starter engages but does not disengage when you let go of the key, the solenoid is likely bad and the starter may suffer significant damage as a result. [links]
Alternator -The alternator is designed to power all of your car’s electrical systems when the vehicle is running. It also recharges the battery. If the alternator is bad, the battery may not be capable of starting the engine.
Common ignition trouble areas:
Blown fuse at starter (if equipped), Corroded or broken ignition switch contacts, Shorted (old) wire in the pop out cable, Shorted lower plate bus bar due to loose rivets and cable end spring pressure, Shorted lower plate wire to points due to connection failure or worn insulation, Shorted condenser due to heat and/or moisture. Points physically closing but not making electrical contact due to oxidation (Usually from long storage or moisture or oil on the points), File to get going again. If a fuse blows while driving, the generator system voltage rises and will also cause oxidation or burning of the points. After correcting the cause of the blown fuse and replacing any light bulbs that burned out from the excessive voltage, the points may have to be filed to get the car running again. Point fiber rubbing block may be worn down causing the cam to short to the point fiber block rivet head. Coil may have good spark when cool but go open circuit or short circuit when warm. Coil high tension wire should be of the metal core type, not resistance type as a bad spot will allow good idle but poor high speed performance due to weaker spark at higher RPMs. Distributor's Bakelite body may have cracks allowing moisture to enter and cause mis- firing or cross firing between cylinders one and two or, between three and four. more
Clutch and linkage
External linkage failure indicated by pedal falling to floor. Shift transmission to neutral while releasing throttle to remove gear load in transmission allowing easy shift lever movement. Coast to safe pull off and inspect external clutch linkage for missing or broken part. Common failure point is a replacement cast iron not forged like original trunnion (the threaded adjusting rod). Sometimes the lever pin can shear or the trunnion nut will pull out of the pedal due to excessive wear from lack of lubrication. (But we would never let our beloved A's to wear that far without some attention.) External release shaft levers have been known to break or wear out. Here replacement is the solution and can easily be done on the car. For an easier-to-use clutch a 1928 multiple disk clutch arm can be fitted with only minor filing of the pedal required for clearance of the trunnion threads. Clutch pedal adjustments are slightly more frequent and exacting but it is worth it, particularly in parades. here
Fuel
Sudden stoppage can be caused by dirt or debris blocking fuel delivery. Quick test for fuel: Crank engine with starter six or seven revolutions fully choked. Stop cranking and release choke. Fuel should dribble out of carburetor throat. If it does, go on to ignition test. If no fuel is seen check for fuel in tank. Don't trust the gauge. Remove the cap and while doing so listen for a sucking in of air which would indicate a plugged vent causing a tank vacuum. Remove filler safety screen and use a dip stick. You should have at least two to three inches for reliable delivery. If ok, remove fuel line at carburetor. A full stream should flow when valve is turned on. If not, turn line up or use a rubber hose over the end and blow back into the line and tank to clear debris. The use of a tank valve screen will help to avoid this problem. Older tank sloshing compounds may be turned to jelly by alcohol laced fuels. This problem can be almost impossible to cure on the road short of rigging up a separate fuel tank. Best solution is don't let it happen in the first place. Use only non-alcohol blended gasolines. Carburetor: If fuel supply to carburetor is ok but no fuel dribbled out while choking then remove lower casting center bolt and carefully disconnect choke rod to allow the lower casting to separate from the upper (attached) casting. Do not allow venturi and gasket to fall. Turn on fuel and it should cascade down over the float. If not check for plugged inlet screen or fuel valve by removing these parts one at a time. Blow out float valve. Check screen and also insure that the end of the fuel line does not extend past ferrule more that 1/8 inch or it may be up against the filter screen and flow will be restricted.
Lack of compression on one or more cylinders--Possible causes are: A ''burned'' exhaust valve. A ''blown'' head gasket (generally between cylinders one and two or three and four, which would show up as low compression readings on both adjacent cylinders). A foreign object lodged under valve head (possibly a carburetor jet) under an intake valve. Can cause loss of power in adjacent cylinder due to fuel being fired in the paired intake port). Illustrated is a jet which would lodge in the valve at speeds over 38 MPH but drop out and allow normal valve action at lower speeds. It was not discovered until the manifold was removed for inspection and re-surfacing. A burned piston due to running with an antifreeze leak into the combustion chamber can erode a significant portion of the piston to cause compression loss. Broken rings and/or scored bore will cause low compression. Illustrated is a piston from an engine with less than 500 miles which was run without water until it seized due to heat. Upon cooling and the addition of water a distinct knock was heard. Cylinder number three was found to be scored and this was the piston from that bore. A minute crack had developed in the piston from the seizure and the opening and closing of the crack during engine operation was causing the knock. Replacing the one bad piston, honing of the bore and replacement of all piston rings restored the engine to use. Excessive blow by from the crankcase breather is an indication of compression leakage past the piston and rings. If compression readings are increased ten to twenty psi upon squirting oil in the cylinders, it would confirm worm rings. here
3. The motor turns very slowly but it still starts. If you twist the key but the motor turns very slowly and you notice the lights on the dash turn very dim while cranking, then you need to have the starter inspected or replaced by a mechanic. Of course, a weak or bad battery can also cause these symptoms, but if your battery is good and the motor still turns slowly when you start the car, you are most likely dealing with a bad starter. [links]
A bad starter will usually make a cacophony of sounds along with the smell or presence of smoke while attempting to start the motor.
If the engine is cranking and your vehicle won’t start, then you are probably dealing with an ignition or fuel system problem. more
This may sound unconventional, but tapping the rear part of the starter with an ordinary hammer while turning the key might help to start the engine.
1. If you turn the ignition key and you hear a single loud click and all the power in the car goes off, then you don’t have a starter problem. This problem could be caused by dirty, corroded, or loose battery terminals. Yes, if all the power goes off (including the radio, the lights, the Optitron gauges, etc.) while turning the key then you better check the battery terminals under the hood.
The whirring sound is caused by a worn or bad solenoid since the pinion gear is spinning the armature but is unable to start or crank the engine. here