TopSoil
26.05.2021 23:35:07
Most inline 4 cylinder and V6 Mercury Outboards require a special flwheel removal tool to remove your flywheel.
Check your Service Manual to make sure exactly which tools(s) are required to remove your flywheel. here
See full version: Mercury Outboard Stators
Most inline 4 cylinder and V6 Mercury Outboards require a special flwheel removal tool to remove your flywheel.
Check your Service Manual to make sure exactly which tools(s) are required to remove your flywheel. here
Stators fail!
Stators can fail for one or more of the following reasons.
1. Age! Old stators fail from internal failures from temperature fluctuations and/or corrosion.
2. Overheating. An engine that is running too hot will "overheat" the stator.
3. Overcharging. Bad batteries, bad battery cables, poor connections and wrong style of batteries can cause the stator to get too hot from attempting to charge the batteries.
Lift off the old stator and label it with a marker as being "BAD".
You cannot repair and old stator. here
Always re-torque all fasteners to factory specifications! [links]
Order 91-849154T1 Flywheel Removal Tool below (see below for the Flywheel Holding Tool is needed). here
Re: Mercury Tach Problems - is rectifier bad, or stator??
Re: Mercury Tach Problems - is rectifier bad, or stator?? here
1. Noise on the wire can cause an increased tach reading. (Unlikely unless you have some high powered electronics on board, like radar. A loose connection that shakes with engine vibration could do it.
If you had both yellow wires disconnected when you tested them, then yes, it is bad. here
What do I need to know to avoid buying something incompatible? I know alternator pole count is important, but how many poles does my alternator have?
Normally "all" of the Evinrude & Johnson engines called for a tachometer that functioned off a "6 Pulse" charging system. but as time went by, I became aware that some of the smaller hp engines (even including a few of the 50hp models I think?) were supplying only 5 pulses. That leaves me to question just exactly how many poles your engine has to supply how many pulses, However. here
When the engine is running and using a cheap as chips digital volt meter, I see 7.7V AC and 6.7V DC between the grey tacho signal wire and ground. Is this normal? When the DVM is set to Hz, I see around 105Hz. Strangely/coincidently this is 6300rpm by basic calculation i.e. 105 cycles per second x 60 seconds per minute. I believe my alternator is a 12 pole unit (but could be 10?). So at idle, the 105Hz should show 1050rpm on the tacho i.e. 105 x 60 / 6 = 1050.
A bit of info here BUT no direct answer to your question. here
BTW, I did the resistance check on the stator and it registers OK on the multi-tester. But that doesn't guarantee that it isn't failing once it gets hot or vibration causes a short. (right?)
Mark, I have found OHM test on outboard electronics to be very unreliable. I use a DVA adapter with my multi meter and have been able to accurately diagnose many outboard problems without guessing. a free trouble shooting guide is in my sig below
Mark, Most outboards do not run off battery power. The run off seperate windings on the stator that power the "powerpack". Other stator windings provide power to the charging system. These "charging" windings typically provide the tach signal. I suggest you consult a wiring diaghram for your motor. I think you will see a connection from the starter solenoid circuit to the powerpack, but no connection from the engine accessory circuit to the powerpack. This kind of wiring allows battery voltage to go to the powerpack when the motor is cranking only. Once running, the battery plays no role in ignition. more