See full version: How to Repair a Pontoon Leak
Small punctures and pinholes in pontoons might not be immediately noticeable, but can still cause you to take on enough water to cause problems. Eventually, water in the pontoons can cause increased gas consumption due to the extra weight. Steering can also be affected due to the weight distribution becoming uneven. It can also cause the boat to sit too low in the water, and potentially to go under. here
Thus, it is good to repair pontoon leaks early on, before a small enough issue becomes a much larger one. [links]
Small punctures and pinholes in pontoons might not be immediately noticeable, but can still cause you to take on enough water to cause problems. Eventually, water in the pontoons can cause increased gas consumption due to the extra weight. Steering can also be affected due to the weight distribution becoming uneven. It can also cause the boat to sit too low in the water, and potentially to go under. here
Thus, it is good to repair pontoon leaks early on, before a small enough issue becomes a much larger one. [links]
Apply a coat of waterproof epoxy sealant to the aluminum surface. This acts as an extra layer of protection against damage. [links]
Apply a coat of metal polish to the pontoon's surface.
Inspect the pontoon for damage. Look for cracks, punctures or busted seams. Find the exact source of the leak.
A leaky aluminum pontoon can lose its buoyancy if damaged areas aren't repaired in a timely manner. Putting off a repair only makes things worse, and excessive delays can result in your boat being landlocked. Sealing an aluminum pontoon isn't hard, so there's no need to procrastinate. All you need is a bit of time, some tools and a dry space where you can work. Your aluminum pontoon will be as good as new, and you'll be sipping lemonade on the lake before you know it.
Move the pontoon to a dry location. This repair involves applying adhesive material to the aluminum pontoon. The adhesive will not stick if the pontoon is wet.
Allow the pontoon sufficient time to dry before putting it back in water.
The best case scenario is, of course, to avoid having to plug those holes in the first place, which could have been accomplished in this case by using the right screws for the job. As mentioned in the video, manufacturer-supplied hardware often isn’t quite up to snuff. Even if it’s stainless-steel it may not be 316L grade (the very best, when it comes to resisting corrosion,) so the safest move is to always source and supply the hardware yourself.
Remember, using 3M 5200 is the key. This sticky goo cures into a hard rubbery material that’s water-tight and super-strong. And be sure to use both the screw-dip and the squeeze methods of getting 5200 into the holes. You want to be 100-percent sure every space not occupied by the screw itself is filled with 5200. here
This method of plugging old screw holes is effective, and will save you from a trip to the repair shop. more
Whether you’re swapping out an old fishfinder transducer, changing a through-hull accessory, or just getting an old boat ready for some new life on the water, it may be necessary to plug old screw holes that lie beneath the waterline. Naturally, any time you’re working on something below the waterline you need to be careful—you certainly don’t want to allow water intrusion, nor do you want to expose any coring in the hull or transom to water. Fortunately, it’s a pretty easy job—tune in for this short Boating Tips video, to see how it’s done.
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Why not try fiberglassing over the holes on your own? It’s quite difficult to do a perfect patch job this way, and when it’s below the waterline, only perfect will do. It’s not at all like doing simple backyard fiberglass repair, because the constant exposure to water is likely to result in delamination if the glass work isn’t just so. Leave this job to the professionals, period. But just plugging a screw hole or two? That can be handled quickly and easily, right at home.