mcdett
07.05.2021 15:32:17
Step 1: Remove the Hub and Outer Bearing
See full version: How to Pack Wheel Bearings and Change Bearing Races
Step 1: Remove the Hub and Outer Bearing
Thread the spindle nut back onto the spindle a few threads. Grasp the inside (towards the center of the car) of the drum or rotor and pull, using moderate force. You should end up with the drum or rotor in your chest and the inner (larger) bearing and seal hanging on the spindle. Remove the spindle nut, bearing, and seal. Set everything on a shop towel. Wipe down the inner bearing and race and inspect for bluing or nicks. If present, replace them. more
Packing your wheel bearings is an annual maintenance revolution that needs to be attended to.
Drag Race 101: How to Pack Wheel Bearings and Change Bearing Races
Although these small balls are not a part of the regular maintenance cycle, they do eventually go bad, so it’s important to know how they work when it comes time for repairs. For that reason, The Drive’s reliable informational team has assembled the answers to all your questions in one place. Let’s explore. here
Visionary films set in the technologically advanced future have long imagined cars that ride around on frictionless orbs similar to Star Wars’ BB-8. We aren’t there yet, as cars still use wheels and tires to tackle terrain for now, but the modern automobile would not be possible without a different type of roller balls. We’re talking about ball bearings.
Behind virtually every wheel on every newish vehicle, there is a set of tiny ball bearings that keep the wheels smoothly rotating without interruption. They’re unsung heroes when it comes to discussions of a car’s primary parts, but their importance cannot be overstated.
Wheel bearings are small metal balls held within small rings that are designed to reduce rolling friction and allow the car’s wheels to spin freely, all while sustaining the vehicle’s weight. more
A wheel bearing is located within the wheel hub, which connects the wheel to the axle. Each wheel has its own set of wheel bearings.
I actually tried lightly banging on the hub a little bit but don't want to damage it, and it doesn't seem like it should take much force to go on. I've just ordered a new CV to see if that's the problem but thought I'd throw this out there for any ideas/techniques to try, or if anyone has encountered this? here
I'm replacing both front hubs, and the passenger side CV as well. Passenger side all came together fine with the new CV. On the driver side I was going to keep using the OEM original CV, but when I tried to slide the new hub (Timken) on, it stopped with about 1.5 to 2 cm of the spindle still showing - the raised part on the inside plus about 2mm of the smooth section after the spindles/splines. I pulled it back off and inspected the spindle and only saw the most smallest of nicks in one spindle, nothing that seemed like it would block the hub sliding on all the way. I then tried putting the original hub on to see if I may have damaged the splines with my baseball bat sledge swings getting the hub off. The original would go a little further but not on to the raised section of the axle. I used both grease and also anti-seize but no help.
Any reason you didn't just try pulling it through the hub using the nut? Maybe I'm not visualizing the term "spindle" here. Can you take a picture?
Did you hammer on the end of the CV shaft to get it out of the original hub without using the nut for thread protection? more
I don't have a grinder or torch, but my father-in-law thinks he has a three jaw puller, so if he does I will try that.
also, did you do what i recommended in the other thread to locate the noise? [links]
thats the inner race, two ways it can be done..if you have an oxy/acetelyne torch, heat it up red hot and tap it off with a hammer and punch or cold chisel. more
Also make sure the bearing is serviceable. Sometimes you can get the hub, bearing, and ABS ring as an assembly for not much more than a plain bearing. It's also 10x easier to change since you don't need a press or puller tools; just pull the hub nut, pop the hub off and replace it, and torque down the hub nut.
That's the inner race of the bearing that's stuck on your spindle.
Last time I replaced the front wheel bearings on my SRT-4, the inner races got stuck on, but I was replacing the hubs at the same time, so I didn't even bother to get them off. here