See full version: Proper Mounting Height for an Outboard
Other factors to consider when determining the mounting height of an outboard are related to performance. According to MarinePartsMan.com, the outboard can be raised 1 inch above the standard height for every 10 miles per hour of speed the boat can attain. However, the motor should not be raised more than 5 inches above the standard position.
The standard shaft length for most outboard engines less than 125 horsepower is 20 inches. MarinePartsMan.com also says that V6 bass-boat engines have a 20-inch shaft. Outboards designed for saltwater applications usually have longer shafts. more
Raising the motor increases the speed of the boat while decreasing the effort needed to turn the boat. It also decreases the boat’s lift and increases the time it takes for the boat to reach plane. In extremes, the engine can have overheating problems if the boat is raised to a point where the water inlets for the cooling system are out of the water.
Boats with extended transoms, brackets that extend the mounting bracket for the outboard motor behind the back of the boat, can use a higher outboard height. The brackets can add 1 inch to the overall mounting height of the outboard.
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But we might be calling your boat a little chunky, especially if you know in your heart that you’re not getting everything possible out of it performance-wise. The first step in regaining lost miles per hour and hole shot is taking an honest-to-goodness inventory of all the “stuff” in your boat.
“Most of the time, I put all of my heavier stuff like jigs and weights in the back of the boat. It gives the front end of the boat a little more lift if you’re trying to hit top end,” he says. “Conversely, if I’m fishing areas where I’ll need to be in some really shallow water, I’ll put all of that up front so I can get on plane faster. Again, on a long run where top speed is important, keep the heavier gear in the back.” [links]
Though you might lose a few pounds by taking out unnecessary tackle, where you carry the weight in your boat is perhaps more important than what you’re carrying. Aluminum boats are more susceptible to weight issues than are fiberglass rigs because their hulls are lighter to start with. more
But we might be calling your boat a little chunky, especially if you know in your heart that you’re not getting everything possible out of it performance-wise. The first step in regaining lost miles per hour and hole shot is taking an honest-to-goodness inventory of all the “stuff” in your boat.
“Most of the time, I put all of my heavier stuff like jigs and weights in the back of the boat. It gives the front end of the boat a little more lift if you’re trying to hit top end,” he says. “Conversely, if I’m fishing areas where I’ll need to be in some really shallow water, I’ll put all of that up front so I can get on plane faster. Again, on a long run where top speed is important, keep the heavier gear in the back.”
Though you might lose a few pounds by taking out unnecessary tackle, where you carry the weight in your boat is perhaps more important than what you’re carrying. Aluminum boats are more susceptible to weight issues than are fiberglass rigs because their hulls are lighter to start with.