barbarousrelic
21.06.2021 3:01:02
Latte' Jed (mason@asylum.sf.ca.us)
See full version: Will a brass brush marr aluminum
Latte' Jed (mason@asylum.sf.ca.us)
Chuck Stringer (cstringe@silver.ucs.indiana.edu)
Some time ago I posted a request on how to clean aluminum engine components, mainly exterior unpolished heads, cylinders, cases, etc., i.e. the stuff that gets really grungy and corroded from years of leaking oil, road tar, salt, bugs, and neglect. (Polished metal is a different subject although there is some overlap.) Since then I have absorbed the distilled wisdom of the net on this subject (effectively none), talked to several wrenchers locally, and tried a variety of things. This post summarizes my research. Some of it is applicable to iron, too. Caviat: I have not tried all of them, but wanted to get this out so that you may benefit from my experience (i.e. destroy your bike (or cage) like I'm destroying mine.) I list the various attacks, what they're good for, and what to watch out for. more
Before I begin: WEAR EYE PROTECTION. WEAR SUITABLE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING AND/OR BREATHING APPARATUS AS NECESSARY. WORK ONLY IN WELL VENTILATED AREAS AND KEEP THE SOLVENTS AWAY FROM FLAME. You'll be glad you did. I accidently squirted xylene in one eye once during this effort and it burned like hell. Also avoid getting the acids, carb cleaner, and gasket remover on anything other than what you're cleaning and dispose of used solvents, etc. in an environmentally responsible way. here
This page was last updated on $Date: 2000/03/06 00:01:07 $ more
This is a production aluminum mold of an industrial pump cover constructed using 7050 aluminum alloy for Custom Molding Solutions, a Rochester, NY-based molder. Images courtesy of Aluminum Injection Mold Company.
This is a full production, aluminum mold that includes the “AIM FRAME” steel support pillars, steel DME U-Box and guided ejection. Also included are part line locks, a single drop hot tip and a mold cycle counter. This mold is constructed using 7050 alloy with high strength, heat-treated wrought aluminum alloy (QC-10™) core/cavity inserts.
After a thorough review of part design, tool design, quantity and type of unfilled, aluminum-friendly resin, aluminum may be a better solution than steel. Using steel molds in conventional molding presses has painted most molders into a cycle time corner, meaning there is no way to appreciably reduce cycle time other than using aluminum molds. Lowering the melt temperatures to below what the manufacturers recommend, as some experts are touting, opens the molder up to litigation from part failure with no guarantee cycle time will improve.
Marmetal stocks N06600 Nickel Chromium Iron in Available Shapes for N06600 Nickel Chromium Iron: SHEET :: PLATE :: BAR :: PIPE .
C715 Cupro-Nickel is a 70/30 copper nickel alloy that is almost entirely resistant to stress corrosion. The addition of small amounts of iron and manganese make 70-30. more
C61300 Aluminum Bronze is copper, alloyed with zinc, iron and aluminum. C613 offers levels of corrosion and high velocity seawater erosion resistance similar to C71500 70/30. here
90/10 Cupro-Nickel is a copper-nickel alloy that shows good resistant to stress corrosion. Due to the addition of small amounts of iron and manganese, C706 CuNi is often used. more
This aluminum bronze alloy contains nickel, which increases the strength. It has very good resistance to salt water corrosion.Great for use in heavy duty bearings & marine. more
C61400 Aluminum Bronze is copper, alloyed with zinc, iron and aluminum. C614 offers levels of corrosion and high velocity seawater erosion resistance similar to C71500 70/30. here
“This finish normally looks best when applied to a prepared, even surface,” Dawson says. “I’ll often take a surface to polish prior to peening. But you can vary the look. Using a polished ball peen hammer on a prepared, polished surface creates a very dramatic, bright effect. Taking an unpolished hammer to an unprepared surface creates a ‘rough-hewn’ sort of look. Using a flat hammer can create a sort of ‘faceted’ look that can also be striking, particularly on convex surfaces.” [links]
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Precious metals are beautiful on their own, from the rich glow of yellow gold to the dense white of platinum—and everything in between. Take that as a starting point and add the kind of patterning and textural elements that come with applying a finishing treatment, and that beauty goes to a whole other level. Whether it’s the tonal matte of a satin finish or the eye-catching colors of a patina, properly finished metals take on a layer of true personality.
A brushed finish uses many of the same tools and techniques as the satin finish. The difference is in the degree of texture imparted, and the more obvious lines left by the brush. With a wire-brushed finish, the contrast between finishes is greater still.
With the metal cleaned, a patinating solution can be applied. The piece may be dipped into it, or it can be applied more judiciously with a paintbrush or even a spray bottle, which Driggs uses to create spots and dots. It all depends on intent and the solution used. Driggs notes that Jax Green gives the classic verdigris, while Jax Brown on bronze will create a “gorgeous rich milk chocolate color.”
Cosmoline is your friend. It may be sticky and otherwise gross but it's the only reason that gun has lasted all these years without rusting away to the pages of firearm history. [links]
Only if you don't intend to ever shoot it. I'll admit, I love the smell of cosmoline. [links]
I recently picked up a new Tokarev so I had to detail strip it then clean all of the evil out of it (read cosmoline). I used a brass punch to get the clip off the slide stop pin and theres a brass line there now :/ I've never had this happen to any of my other guns so I'm looking for advice on how to remove it. Someone suggested a pencil eraser but it didn't remove it well enough. Still obvious. Any other helpful suggestions? I won't feel bad if i can't get it off, but I'm as stickler for pretty things so if I can, I'd like to. I'll show photos soon :D It's a romanian but still very nice.
Unless I'm removing rust on a Kimber, I'd prefer not to use steel wool :P
If the metal is not damaged you can remove brass or aluminum stains with a Lead Remover cloth like this one Lead Remover Don't confuse this with the silicone cloths they will not work at all. Also be careful with the lead removal cloth as it can take blue off if you work hard enough at it.