Consequently, head Bolts can break for no apparent reason; leaving you with a leaking or blown head gasket. more
See full version: Head Bolts; Inspect And Never Reuse Torque To Yield (TTY) Head Bolts
Consequently, head Bolts can break for no apparent reason; leaving you with a leaking or blown head gasket. more
For regular head bolts, make sure all of the head bolts are in good condition; free from nicks, corrosion and are not stretched. Never, reuse torque to yield (TTY) head bolts. Because, if you do, it’s not unusual for them to break.
Many people never check the accuracy of their torque wrenches. Beam and gauge type wrenches, are less likely to get out of calibration, than the adjustable dial type. At least once a year, you should check your torque wrench for accuracy.
Never use a Scotch Brite abrasive pad to; whiz off old gasket residue from a head or block. Abrasives can leave low spots on the surface, that will prevent the head gasket from sealing.
good point kenny .
skip a few trips and take to machine shop im haveind one done in my powerhead mounting bolts today 20 dollars
good luck bennyb
No argument here FR. Too many hard lessons learned with that one. more
Re: Running engine with 1 head bolt missing. [links]
Re: Running engine with 1 head bolt missing.
How important is that one bolt?
Since it is just one bolt, can I just ooze some really strong adhesive/compound inside the hole?? [links]
Did you vacuum out the holes prior to placing the head on?
I initially thought I would F--k this up somehow and I would in the end, part this car.
TIP: apply a light coating of new engine oil to the threads and shaft of the bolt before installing. This assures consistent torque results.
Do NOT use anti-seize for this purpose, as tempting as it is. it will result in uneven torque results. I use anti-seize on just about every other kind of bolt though.
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If you’ve worked on an older car for more than five minutes, you’ll know what it is to give a bolt your all with a lefty-loosey, and the head snaps off as if it was the tightiest of righties. Fret not, young wrench, for I have a solution that will keep you from losing your sanity.
A while back, as I was replacing a coolant temperature sensor in a car I was working on, the brass sensor threads and aluminum sensor housing had a bit of a falling out and decided that they would make life difficult for everyone around them. What this meant for me is that when I went to tighten the sensor down to a watertight seal, the head of the sensor snapped off, leaving the hollow brass core firmly stuck in the engine. Here’s what I used to remove it, and you can use the same procedure to remove virtually any stuck bolt. [links]
Considering that in my predicament, the sensor was hollow, I didn’t need to drill into it and skipped that step. I simply inserted the drill extractor into the hole and slowly ran it out by turning it counter-clockwise with a ratchet. I then installed a new coolant temperature sensor in its place, making sure not to over-torque the small bolt.