MacRohard
24.05.2021 21:50:34
Mercury Marine 150 Hp 4 Stroke Outboard here
See full version: Have You Winterized Your Mercury Marine 150 Hp Outboard
Mercury Marine 150 Hp 4 Stroke Outboard here
STORAGE PREPARATION here
Here’s the latest installment in our video series on winterizing inboard marine engines and outboard motors. This video provides step by step procedures for winterizing a Mercury Marine 150 Hp 4 stroke outboard motor. here
*The major consideration in preparing your boat for storage is to protect it from rust, corrosion, and damage caused by freezing of trapped water.* [links]
Re: maintenance on 150 XR6 . [links]
The only things I would add is to put stabil in the fuel when you buy the last tank of the year. Don't wait until winterization for that. Also, grease your steering and tilt tube "zerks" when you winterize. If you can pull the steering cable ram withiut removing the engine, you might do that an clean/grease that also.<br /><br />If you have ever hit anything at all, I would also check the propshaft to be sure it's not running out. Maximim spec for that is .008 (hard to see with naked eyes) [links]
Re: maintenance on 150 XR6 .
fuel pump, oil line check is a must dont wait till they get hard and brittle or break, t-stats and pressure control valve diaphram when doing the water pump. keep the carbs clean and there is usually no need to rebuild them.
Welcome aboard:<br /><br />Sounds like you are doing all the right things. I dont change the lower unit oil before using it in the spring, why, it just sat there all winter? Only other thing I can suggest is a new fuel pump along with the water pump and feel your fuel, water, oil and vacume lines and replace as necesary when hard and brittle. Spark plugs every couple years just because.
Conditioning the Fuel:
The fuel treat is very important when winterizing your outboard. Do not be scared of using too much Fuel Conditioner, as too little may keep the fuel stable for only a few months, leaving gooey varnish in the carburetors and using too much only puts a dent in your wallet that might save you from repair bills in the spring. Make sure you change the Water-Separating Fuel Filter before starting the fuel treatment to ensure that any water in the system is removed. The fuel treatment is run in the boat for the last time, so it ends up throughout the fuel system and not just in the tank. Fogging Oil comes in spray cans usually instead of quart bottles; however, we have found that draining the carburetor works better. Keep it running while you spray the fogging oil into the cylinders but do not over rev the engine past 1500 rpms. After you spray the fogging oil, turn off the engine and do not run it out of fuel especially if it is an oil-injected engine. On models that have drains on carburetors or vapor separator tanks (EFI Models) loosen drain screw on bottom of carburetor bowl or VST tank and drain all fuel from carburetors or VST. Remove the engine fuel filter and empty the fuel from the filter. [links]
Outboards:
Run the fuel treatment through the engine for about 10-15 minutes then switch to the storage mix tank for another few minutes. The air silencer then is removed to spray a good dose of Engine Tuner through the carburetors or fuel injection air tubes. The engine tuner washes carbon deposits from the cylinder heads, piston rings, piston tops and spark plugs. Once the engine tuner is sprayed in the appropriate places turn off the engine and let it sit for about a half hour. If this is the first time doing this, let the engine sit for a couple of hours to let the fluid work on the carbon deposits that may be baked-on. After this, start up the engine and spray in any unused tuner into the same places. Now, you are ready to use the fogging oil. Spray the fogging oil into the same orifices as the engine tuner. This oil coats the inside with a film that protects the metal surfaces and bearings from rust and condensation. The fluid may choke the engine or produce smoke but that is normal. You might need to rev the engine some to keep it running while you spray the fogging oil into the cylinders but do not over rev the engine past 1500 rpms. After you spray the fogging oil, turn off the engine and do not run it out of fuel especially if it is an oil-injected engine. Next, remove the all the spark plugs and insert a teaspoon of outboard oil into each cylinder. Then rotate the flywheel to distribute the oil in the cylinders after removing the kill switch to prevent the engine from starting. Then check the Tilt Fluid and top off if needed. Now, tilt the engine down and drain the Gearcase Lubricant. Fill the unit with fresh lubricant and replace the fill/vent plug gaskets if necessary. Make sure to Grease the fittings on the engine which we recommend the swivel bracket, steering tube, tilt mechanism and cowling latches. Spray the powerhead and any wiring with Silicone Lubricant. Also make sure you touch up any missing or chipped paint areas. Replace zinc anodes that are eroded. Then finally make sure you give the engine a coat of Protective Wax. Make sure you cover the propeller exhaust outlets with a plastic bag to prevent pests and water from entering. Remove the battery and store in a cool place. [links]
Maintenance Matters - How To Winterize Your Mercury Outboard
For those of us who do not live in the Southern climates during the winter months, now is the time to prepare your Mercury outboard for its long winter nap. The most familiar cause of storage-related breakdown is water that is left in the engine block which in turn freezes. Ice will form, expand and then crack the cylinder block. This can lead to very costly repairs. Before storing your outboard for the winter we recommend performing the following simple steps.
Final Notes:
Before you begin winterizing your Mercury outboard, make sure to get a manufacturer specific service manual and read the section on storage preparation based on your make, model and year of engine. The costs of the supplies are minimal to protect your Mercury outboard during the winter and will keep your engine running smooth in the Spring.
OutboardS drain all water out with the motor tilted down. No drain plug! Put stabilizer in the fuel, run motor on ears and fog the carbs(all three), shut the motor off pull all plugs and shoot a bit of foggin oil in each cylinder, replace plugs, change lower unit oil, I also like to pull the prop and check for fishing line around the shaft, and fully charge the batteries. Store motor in a fully down position and all water will run out on it's own. Your local marine will also do this for you for around 50-75 bones. Good luck.<br />Cu<br /><br />----------------<br />RUNNING THE MOTOR WHILE LISTENING TO THE HORN WILL MAKE YOU MORN!!
I'm wondering if it best to use stabilizer in the gas or run the gas tank & carbs dry for winter storage. I'm sure there's many views on this subject. more
Re: Winterizing 150 HP Merc more
Build date is stamped at tha base of #2 cylinder on tha "block" half (back half or cylinder half of motor) where tha two block halves bolt together almost right behind the advance timing arm. It will be small (1/8") numbers. Will be M/D/Y. It is possible for it to be a "replacement" powerhead. You should be able to check this by comparing tha serial # on tha clamp bracket to tha number that "should" be stamped on tha welsh plug if tha metal insert is still there. Sometimes when a block is fixed (heated for sleeve replacement) tha insert with tha number comes out never ta be found again . Its a freeze plug looking thing on top of tha motor between tha heads.
Not tryin' ta be a butt head but I know my V6 Merc/Mariners inside n out. 'specially tha pre cdm motors. Explainin' all this cause its very important if and when ya buy a manual and/or parts for it. D [links]
That serial number shows ta be '91. '92's start in tha 0D08200 series.
Guess I'll have to figure out what's with this motor.
Re: Winterizing a '95 Mercury XR4 150 HP
'91 WAS tha last year of production for XR4. If someone sold you a '95 XR4 its BS or has a replacement powerhead manufactored in '95 (check build date stamped on tha motor). Its a one of a kind 2.4 thats known as a "fat" block 2.4. About tha only oddball motor they built. Also tha first year of tha "fat" block 2.0 motor. Completly different block from '87 to '90model XR4 (along with several other parts). Late '91 and up was XR6. A 2.5 motor that replaced tha XR4. [links]