See full version: How to Winterize a Four-Stroke Outboard: Video
5. Next, and this is very important: tilt the motor all the way up and all the way down. You want to make absolutely sure that every drop of water is out of the motor. Otherwise it could freeze and break something. [links]
2. Change the lower unit oil. Even if it's fresh you still want to change it, just in case any water got in there, because water can freeze and expand and cause serious damage. (Watch How to Change the Lower Unit Oil) more
Senior Editor Lenny Rudow clears up the confusion about how to winterize a four-stroke outboard. And here are some of our other winterizing tips that cover fuel, diesels, and mistakes to avoid.
6. Traditionally the next step is to fog the engine. But many tech heads (myself included) believe it's better just to start it every three weeks or so. That way you don't have to fog it. Can that really be all there is to winterizing a four stroke?
1. Give the motor a good freshwater flush. In some cases you'll need set of earmuffs; in other cases, you can thread the hose right into the outboard. Let the water flow for a good five or ten minutes. Now that she's flushed out we're going to remove the cowl and rinse away any salt buildup that we find inside. more
4. Hook up the water again and run the motor for a good ten to fifteen minutes, to work the stabilized fuel through the motor. [links]
Also - the only output I was getting from the antifreeze I was putting in was through 2 holes in the lower unit (at the top of it). I think my telltale is clogged with a bit of sand. Is this location (the two holes in the top of the lower unit) where the water usually exits the cooling system?
My fear is that the antifreeze was not getting up to the powerhead. but I didn't get any high temp alarms or anything so I think/hope I'm safe. thanks in advance.
Outboards (two stroke or four stroke) are self draining. Why on earth are you adding antifreeze that will run out anyway? It is a waste of money and time. Just leave the motor full down, drain and refill the lower unit lube, change the engine oil and filter. Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel, run the engine for a couple of minutes (on muffs) to get the stabilized fuel into the fuel system and you are done. There is nothing in the Suzuki manuals that indicate running antifreeze through the system is necessary. Some water exits the ports just below the engine cover but the bulk of the water exits the engine through the hub of the prop. Whether you are pumping antifreeze or water, either should exit through the prop. Again, antifreeze is not necessary.
It would help if you could be more detailed about the revs involved and describe the circumstances when its missing more completely. Bear in mind, none of us can see or hear what is happening with your engine so The more info you give, the more likely it is that someone will recognise what is happening and why, and be able to offer suggestions.
Now, one possibility is that the neutral throttle switch has failed. It does happen. What that means is that the engine still thinks it is in neutral (because it doesn't see the signal from the switch that tells it that the engine is now in gear) and therefore the rev limiter cuts in at about 3000rpm, and also spark advance is restricted as well, meaning acceleration to 3000 rpm is also doughy. If you try to rev the engine in neutral, the NTS stops it being over revved. So ask yourself, does it sound the same as that when you are trying to rev it when its in gear? Its like a race car that is in pit lane with the pit lane limiter. It didnt really sound like that from your description, sounded more like a bad spark plug or plug lead from what you said. here
But the very first thing would be to replace those 4 year old spark plugs!! When you take them out, carefully check each plug to see what they look like and if one looks different to the others, thats the problem plug/lead/cylinder. [links]
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