BrightAnarchist
12.06.2021 5:52:24
Not specifically however, Yamaha makes a product called "Ringfree" (it isn't cheap but works very well). [links]
See full version: Yamaha 4 stroke outboard idle problems
Not specifically however, Yamaha makes a product called "Ringfree" (it isn't cheap but works very well). [links]
You don't have anything to lose at this point if its acting up and it doesn't clean up and behave as Rodbolt suggested. here
the ECU does NOT monitor the physical position of the ISC.
that ISC controls idle speed.
if it mechanically sticks the ECU will constantly toggle it trying to make the idle stabilize.
eventually it will overheat, then overcurrent the ECU taking out the ECU. more
In either case, its good preventive maintanance, will help clean up the important internals as well.
If the valve is NOT serviceable (protected by two tamper torx screws), I think the valve CANNOT be cleaned properly because the sliding valve is INSIDE the plastic housing of the assembly. I can only see part of the sliding valve that can mechanically stick. See figure below showing one torx screw. more
dunno.
I spray them out and blow them dry with combustion chamber cleaner.
if the still wont work properly or get over 200*F after several cycles with the laptop I deep six them and replace it. more
Check quick connect does it have oring. Does fuel drip anywhere?
what quick connects do you mean ,no drips anywhere. think i will try portable fuel tank, lots of talk of ethenal gas eating inside of gas line , starving engine for fuel at acceleration and full throttle. thanks for response
I found a product that actually works in keeping the water in the tank in suspension, its called K100. The boat is an 1997 Angler 204 with the original gas tank. Since using the product, (and began using ethonol free fuel) the droplets are gone (actually in suspension getting burned out). The engine runs better now than new. here
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I've got a little problem with my engine at the moment and which I am almost certain is something pretty minor, so I am looking for a little help in solving this. My engine is a Yamaha 115 4 stroke. Below is a lowdown as to exactly what happened and where I am at right now.
My power was so low, that I could not even transmit a call on the VHF, so it was at that point that I figured my charging system probably had not been working from the time I launched, and it eventually drained to a point so low that all (or most) power was cut down to nearly nothing and shutting down the boat. here
Ok, so at the end of November and during the Halibut tournament, I ended up getting towed in, due to what I believed was a charging issue. I haven't been able to mess with it since that day due to things going on, but I really need to get back on the water soon, so I'm hoping to get this problem figured out and then fixed fairly soon.
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Purchased brand new outboard and started to notice salt deposits on cavitation plate and lower unit after recommended flushing. Deposits return after second or third wash down. Problem appears related to new plastic cowlings beneath head cowling. Some owners report removing said cowlings to flush and clean concealed salt. Dealer and Corporate office are not cooperative advising me this is typical performance, but never had similar issues with Yamahas lacking the plastic side cowlings. Suspect every owner of similar outboards is experiencing the same problem. Check your lower units days after flushing and cleaning for these deposits that will lead to corrosion problems eventually. here
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