[Lexington]

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[Pilot]

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[harrifolfenced]

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[fantomas]

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[mnem0sys]

[links]

[lachesis]

Next, pull the spark plugs and by hand rotate the engine noting each piston as it rises and then starts to go DOWN. Put a CLEAN screwdriver down the hole and push paying REAL HARD ATTENTION. If you can feel the piston move(it will be very LITTLE MOVEMENT (and should hear a slight clunk as the piston pushes back down against the crank. The rod to crank bearing likely toast..

[sf44]

I recently purchased a 2004 boat with a Yamaha 225 Outboard (600 hours supposedly). The motor has been running flawlessly for the last few months and after I returned from a trip yesterday the motor starting knocking fairly loudly. The knocking happens at all RPM's and idle. It is coming directly from top left side of the valve cover. In doing some research I learned it could be the Timing Chain Tensioner. The mechanic pulled the valve covers and inspected as much as he could (valve clearance, piston head, tensioner, compression, spark plugs, etc.) and advised that everything was well within spec and looked good. He didn't feel like it was the timing chain tensioner, as it did not look worn and the timing chain appeared to have no play, but to me it sounds like it is coming directly from where that part is located. He now wants to tear it down further to see if it is possibly the wrist pin of the piston or crankshaft related. Before I sink thousands into this diagnosis I was hoping that someone could help further isolate the problem or offer suggestions. I posted a youtube video of the knocking sound it is making (see below). Sorry that the video is so poor. [links]

[mmain708]

Anyway, if the top end is tight, it could very well be a rod bearing but that's usually more of a double knock(as the piston changes directions up and down) here

[TopSoil]

Thanks for any help you can provide!!
Marty here

[jorgen]

Couple things you can check / do. more

[mgoodn2244]

Also, drain the oil into SUPER CLEAN PAN and drain the oil filter as well into the pan. You want to look for any metal debris. Any is NOT good. You can mail out a small sample of the oil to companies that check the oil. They can find excess bearing material in the oil if any(IE a toasted bearing) JUST by doing an analysis on it. If bearing material is found, you can make a better decision, rebuild, new power head, etc. [links]

[megas]

so far I have replaced the thermostat (tested it in a pan of hot water -- it was bad) and I replaced the ISC valve after some serious consideration. Problem persists.

[bitcoin_pl]

with YDS you can play with the ISC position both running,dynamic test, or key on engine off,static test.
word: if you hold it in your hand and run the static test keep light finger pressure on the pintle.

[kathlemith24]

typically after running the engine and you turn the key off you will hear the ISC rattle as it resets to the 100% open position in anticipation of the next restart.

[GLR444]

A LH engine spins CCW (Standard Rotation) more

[beatfocus]

IMPORTANT: It is extremely important to note that engine and propeller rotation are not one and the same. In most cases the propeller rotation will differ from the engine rotation due to the gearing.
A few of the older, “Iron-Body” transmissions with specific ratios would turn either direction. But, in general, when standing at the back of the boat looking forward, with a single STD Rotation (LH/CCW) engine, most of the transmissions turned CW (opposite of the engine). This is the same as the sterndrives and these applications require a RH prop (if the driver is on the right-hand side, this compensates for “boat role” due to the driver weight).
[links]

[unavailable]

Left Hand (LH) rotation is considered to be standard while Right hand (RH) is considered an “Opposite” rotation. You should ALWAYS view the the engine rotation while standing behind the engine and looking at the flywheel.

[coonyeben]

A RH engine spins CW (Opposite Rotation)