[Galuel]

Fuel: In many areas of the nation, fuel supplies switch from summer to winter blends. This is for environmental reasons and so that motor will be
able to start easily with colder temperatures. Check to see if your area is an area that does this. If you try to run a motor once the weather gets cold and it still has summer gas in the tank, you can experience starting issues and other negative running conditions. If you use your boat less frequently, if at all, during the winter months, make sure to use Yamalube Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner Plus to help ensure that fuel in the system doesn’t foul and cause problems the next time you go out.

[KyleBles87]

Oil: Please change the oil before putting the boat away for the season or even as the usage begins to decrease with cooler weather. Combustion byproducts can accumulate in the oil and contribute
to degradation of the oil’s additive packages, reducing their effectiveness, especially those blended into oil to help prevent internal component corrosion. At the same time, cold-water temps make it harder for water condensation that has accumulated inside the motor to be burned off – the operating temperature may not get high enough for the water to turn to vapor and be eliminated. Additionally, colder winter temperature can add to longer warm-up times with a rich fuel/air mixture, possibly contributing to oil dilution that directly affects the oil’s ability to lubricate critical components. Getting fresh oil into the motor will help to ensure that contaminants like these won’t have a chance to causes problems as the boat spends less time in operation. more

[EricJ2190]

Batteries: A dead battery? What a drag. Fortunately, this problem can be a
thing of the past with a small amount of effort. Make sure that you have an understanding of proper battery maintenance, such as checking the electrolyte level on serviceable batteries, cleaning connections, and treating them with anti-corrosion spray. And most importantly, of course, using the right kind of battery charger when the boat is going to be sitting for a long time. A discharged battery is much more susceptible to sulfation and internal damage during cold temperatures. [links]

[Osndok]

For some of us, unfortunately, the boating season is limited to the nicer weather that comes with the summer months. In just a few months it will be time to start thinking about putting boats away for those of us in the northern part of the US. There are still some seasonal maintenance items that should be taken care of as the temperature begins to change to help ensure that the motor and boat continue to operate reliably.

[pksace]

For those of us who do not live in the Southern climates during the winter months, now is the time to prepare your Yamaha outboard for its long winter nap. The most familiar cause of storage-related breakdown is water that is left in the engine block which in turn freezes. Ice will form, expand and then crack the cylinder block. This can lead to very costly repairs. Before storing your outboard for the winter we recommend performing the following simple steps.

[benderamp]

Outboards:
Run the fuel treatment through the engine for about 10-15 minutes then switch to the storage mix tank for another few minutes. The air silencer then is removed to spray a good dose of Engine Tuner through the carburetors or fuel injection air tubes. The engine tuner washes carbon deposits from the cylinder heads, piston rings, piston tops and spark plugs. Once the engine tuner is sprayed in the appropriate places turn off the engine and let it sit for about a half hour. If this is the first time doing this, let the engine sit for a couple of hours to let the fluid work on the carbon deposits that may be baked-on. After this, start up the engine and spray in any unused tuner into the same places. Now, you are ready to use the fogging oil. Spray the fogging oil into the same orifices as the engine tuner. This oil coats the inside with a film that protects the metal surfaces and bearings from rust and condensation. The fluid may choke the engine or produce smoke but that is normal. You might need to rev the engine some to keep it running while you spray the fogging oil into the cylinders but do not over rev the engine past 1500 rpms. After you spray the fogging oil, turn off the engine and do not run it out of fuel especially if it is an oil-injected engine. Next, remove the all the spark plugs and insert a teaspoon of outboard oil into each cylinder. Then rotate the flywheel to distribute the oil in the cylinders after removing the kill switch to prevent the engine from starting. Then check the Tilt Fluid and top off if needed. Now, tilt the engine down and drain the Gearcase Lubricant. Fill the unit with fresh lubricant and replace the fill/vent plug gaskets if necessary. Make sure to Grease the fittings on the engine which we recommend the swivel bracket, steering tube, tilt mechanism and cowling latches. Spray the powerhead and any wiring with Silicone Lubricant. Also make sure you touch up any missing or chipped paint areas. Replace zinc anodes that are eroded. Then finally make sure you give the engine a coat of Protective Wax. Make sure you cover the propeller exhaust outlets with a plastic bag to prevent pests and water from entering. Remove the battery and store in a cool place.

[kathybrendan962]

Conditioning the Fuel:
The fuel treat is very important when winterizing your outboard. Do not be scared of using too much Fuel Conditioner, as too little may keep the fuel stable for only a few months, leaving gooey varnish in the carburetors and using too much only puts a dent in your wallet that might save you from repair bills in the spring. Make sure you change the Water-Separating Fuel Filter before starting the fuel treatment to ensure that any water in the system is removed. The fuel treatment is run in the boat for the last time, so it ends up throughout the fuel system and not just in the tank. Fogging Oil comes in spray cans usually instead of quart bottles; however, we have found that draining the carburetor works better. Keep it running while you spray the fogging oil into the cylinders but do not over rev the engine past 1500 rpms. After you spray the fogging oil, turn off the engine and do not run it out of fuel especially if it is an oil-injected engine. On models that have drains on carburetors or vapor separator tanks (EFI Models) loosen drain screw on bottom of carburetor bowl or VST tank and drain all fuel from carburetors or VST. Remove the engine fuel filter and empty the fuel from the filter.

[LuciferUA]

3) Gear oil pump with lower unit adapter more

[17ujzChRb6VPQGyANVyktc1du2Hrjfwhsz]

5) New Gear Case screw washers (very important) here

[Fox]

1) A large regular screwdriver more

[humble]

Once you attached the gear oil pump and adapter to the lower screw hole begin pumping the oil in until it starts flowing out of the top hole. Once the oil is flowing out of the top hole smoothly with no air bubbles place the top screw in finger tight and remove the pump adapter then place the bottom screw in. Now that both screws are in place, fully tighten them. You’ve just changed your gear oil. Pretty easy and you’ve saved yourself a few dollars by not having to go the marina. [links]

[PulsedMedia]

I only had the boat in water for about 2days before taking in to have bottom paint redone during that time I ran it at cruse for about 2hrs 3800- 4200 and played at low RPM and idel for apox 2hrs learning the boat. After pulling the boat the oil level was a good 2 inchs above full mark and was clearly gas not water in the oil . I have changed the oil and winterized the boat but I�m now worried about the condition of the motor and how gas is getting into oil. more

[Morten MС€lsted Nedertoft]

I have read a bunch of posts on the internet about decarbonizing (seems strange to me on modern fuel injected engine that, that much gas would get by rings), Fuel pump ( makes no sense to me how that would cause gas to get in oil), Thermostats ( I see how that causes water in oil but not sure how gas) . Fuel injectors (seems most likely to me if a leaking fuel injector let gas in cylinder after shutdown.) From all the articles I have read I could not find one that said what fixed the problem. here

[Harmton]

I recently purchased 2007 Kingfisher with F250 with 280 hrs on it. When I purchased the boat oil level was at about 50% mark on dip stick markings. Had approx 30 hr on oil and looked clean. Motor starts instantly, no smoke will run up 6k RPM and never misses a beat. more

[usable]

My current plan is to change Thermostats, add the Yamaha ring free Stuff , and to run it fairly hard for a while and see what happens.. [links]