yrrryyoderj
31.05.2021 19:47:30
I've followed this thread. Will you please let us know how it turned out. Thanks. here
See full version: Yamaha 150 Oil Pump Problem
I've followed this thread. Will you please let us know how it turned out. Thanks. here
dude, I just described how to test the system.
simply unplug the engine tank, turn the key on and jump the pins using the wire colors I gave you.
if it still wont work we have eliminated the engine tank switch, do you have the digital tach and is the green oil lamp of the far right arrow or bar on ?
if the remote tank switch is bad no automatic oil transfer will occure and you will have yellow lamp or center bar illuminated. more
I connected the blue/green wire to the black wire and that didn't do anything. I also tried connecting the blue/green wire to the ground on the engine. I also tried connecting the black wire to the ground on the engine. None of those combinations activated the oil injection pump on the tank in the boat. I need some more ideas from Rodbolt. [links]
Re: Yamaha 150 Oil Pump Problem
Re: Yamaha 150 Oil Pump Problem more
Open the throttle to the wide open position. here
You may also run a pre-mix in the mean time (with the injection), just in case it isn't operating/clogged, etc. more
Tighten the link rod jam nut. [links]
You might try putting a piece of tape on the oil tank level and run it seeing if the level goes down.
As for the specific adjustment, IDK. Either in the shop manual or someone else will chime in. more
I'm posting this for my fellow Yammy owners that suffer the stares and coughs from innocent bystanders when you throw out a smoke screen every time you start your ride. I have suffered this humiliation for 2 years with the boat I bought used, and finally cured it with $7 of parts. Here's my tip: if your engine smokes alot on start (small cumulus cloud), maybe has a rough idle, but otherwise runs OK at speed, do the following FIRST before you try any of the 59 other smoke related fixes:
1. REPLACE THE 2 OIL PUMP O-Rings. They are the O-rings shown behind the oil pump on the online Yamaha parts diagram. It takes all of 15 minutes. 2 bolts remove the pump. One O-ring is on the back of the pump; the other is on the circular spacer that fits around the pump drive shaft in the block. You'll have to gently coax the spacer out of the block with a screw driver to get to it.
2. Then make sure the oil pump linkage is adjusted correctly. With motor off and throttle plates completely closed (which they should be since you're not stepping on the gas) shorten the linkage end so that the oil pump lever is just touching the stop-pin. Another 5 minutes work, maybe.
A final note: some of thie stuff I did should be done periodically. I did have a bad LP fuel pump (slight leakage), but it was not causing the smoke. I did clean my O2 sensor before replacing, but went ahead and replaced it hoping that was the magic bullet. Nope. Didn't improve anything. I will say the injector cleaning made a noticeable difference in the performance and I'm glad I did that. Much more pep. I took them to InjectorRX in Houston (Chris did them in one day for $18/injector). He used ultrasonic bath to clean and replaced filters and o-rings on each. If your injectors are dirty, mail them to Chris. No amount of gas additive will remove the particulate crap that gets in them and plugs them up.
Problem: Low oil alarm at key is "sounding" constant, while engine is running. Engine goes in to limp mode.
1) Alarm at key appears to work (makes noise), limp mode works due to alarm.
Removed new oil tank sensor from remote tank, hooked up to wire harness, so I could manipulate float, while engine is running. When the float on the sensor is in the "up" position (indicating good oil level). The alarm sounds constant. When float is "down" or indicating tank is low, alarm does not sound.