seemakashyap
10.06.2021 2:33:32
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See full version: Yamaha v4 outboard toggle emergency switch
Thank you for shopping at GreenBayProp!! [links]
Emergency engine cut-off switch/lanyard. Kills ignition when lanyard is pulled. For use with conventional or magneto ignitions. Seals out moisture and makes reconnection easier.
Please check the part numbers for your fitment needs. [links]
Sierra part number: MP40970-1
Green Bay Prop offers the most used Stern Drive & Outboard parts in Wisconsin!
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Follow the service manual procedure when testing the remote tank's float switch. It is normally closed, and opens when activated by the float. Early models have electronics inside the assembly and require different test methods than later models containing the circuitry in the oil-controller.
they all used some form of alarm hold circuitry.
initial engine tank fill.
SWB closed indicating enough oil for transfer.
SW3,lowest switch in the engine oil tank,closed.
this will set the audible,RPM reduction if running,red lamp AND commands pump on for 180 seconds.
this will work with all V6 at key on engine off.
the blue pump wire is taken to ground for 180 seconds at key on if the above conditions are met.
makes 3 minutes worth of voltage and voltage drop testing avalible. more
Non-transfer of oil to the engine-mounted main tank can be as simple a problem as a neglected filter. Moisture gets into the remote tank from spray, rain, condensation, or from being located in the bilge where it can be splashed or submerged. The water forms a sticky emulsion in the bottom of the tank and plugs up the fine screen in the filter element. [links]
early V4 and 2.6L V6,once the alarm was triggered the key had to be cycled to release the alarm hold circuits.
later versions that used the pulser coil signal had to be throttled below 1300 RPM for alarm release.
When no oil transfer occurs, lift the toggle bypass switch to see if the pump runs and starts to fill the main tank. If it does, either the tank's float assembly is inoperative or the oil-controller is faulty. To check the float assembly, disconnect its wiring plug and ground out the brown (on early engines) or the blue-green wire on the wiring harness side. If the pump and wiring are in good condition, the pump should stay on. Grounding the white (on early engines) or blue-white wire will turn the pump off.
Now I have more troubleshooting to do. I bought a stator online last year, it does not have the black and yellow kill wire attached as the old one does, so I won't try to install it. I ohmed it out and it was a near perfect match anyway. 82ohms on orange pair, 40 on brown pair. no shorts to be found. I replaced the power pack last year. ran fine about 2 weeks, then no fire. Still trying to get fire. (I quit working on it during hunting season and winter). more
I still have a problem though.
Anyone shed some light on this. always willing to learn something new. here
Re: Can I bypass my Kill Switch?
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