argos
24.05.2021 14:14:26
appreciate any further advice here
See full version: Johnson 1985 8hp lower unit removal
appreciate any further advice here
Re: Johnson 1985 8hp lower unit removal [links]
Did u take out the bolt that connects the shifter linkage to the shift rod? Generally it's under the cowl right below the powerhead. NO. do not force it off!
will the gear shift rod and main shaft go in place by itself when I force the lower unit on again? [links]
Yes. im about 99.99% sure yours has that. Otherwise how would the shifter connect to that rod and pull it up or push it down. Its an honest mistake but you have probably been tugging on that lower unit the whole time with that bolt holding the shift rod to the linkage the whole time! Put a bolt or two back into the lower unit and release the pressure on the shifter. then shift the unit back and forth forward-reverse. look under the power head and likely on the port side of the motor there is a bolt connecting the shifter to the shift rod (shift rod stays with the lower unit). remove that bolt. then take out the bolts that you just put back in to hold the lower unit on and it should come right off.
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Remove the four attachment bolts from the lower housing by turning them counterclockwise with a wrench.
Open the outboard motor powerhead cover and locate the spark plugs on the rear of the engine. Disconnect the wires from the plugs by pulling them straight off to prevent accidental starting of the motor. more
If you have an old Johnson outboard motor you will eventually need to replace the water pump or even the entire lower drive assembly. An outboard is made up of three primary components: a powerhead that houses the engine; an intermediary shaft that separates the powerhead from the lower unit; and the lower unit, the part of the motor that's submerged in the water with the propeller. Typically four bolts hold the lower unit to the intermediary shaft.
Place the outboard on a motor stand out of the water to allow access and a stable platform with which to work. Locate the four bolts holding on the lower unit, located near the place where the intermediary shaft and lower unit meet. There is no need to remove the propeller, as the entire assembly will be removed.
Gently tap the lower unit downward with a soft mallet until it separates from the powerhead. Once it separates, you may need to tilt the outboard motor upward to remove the lower unit and allow for the shaft to come out. more
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Then was time to install the head and it's gasket, and the sideplate cover. And then both the top and bottom crankshaft seals #2 and #3 in the exploded illustration below.
#7 -- #0328157 -- TUBE, CRANKCASE DRAIN, LOWER METERING ROD (.123" Dia, X 1.310") (black color)
#8 -- #0328156 -- TUBE, CRANKCASE DRAIN, UPPER METERING ROD (.123" Dia, X 1.680") (cream color)
The slow speed idle jet screw (#15 in the illustration below) has many small spline serrations on the outer end that mate with splines in the hard rubber knob. The placement of this knob on the front cowling makes for only 180 degrees of rotation. In doing any fine adjustments after final assembly on the motor, if you can not get the knob to rotate as far one way or the other to get a smooth idle, pull the knob straight forward and off the shaft, rotate it 180 degrees so you get a better chance to tune the motor. Then once I get this "sweet spot", I like to pull it off again and position the pointer on the knob straight down, this gives me s then known return position and about 90 degrees of movement either way if my fuel ratio changes.
Cotter Pin : The cotter pin holding the plastic cap on is 1/8" diameter X 1 5/8" overall length.
I also purchased and installed a self contained hour meter that attaches to a spark plug wire, which was screwed to a thin aluminum plate that was bolted under the top thermostat bolt. A clean installation, readily readable and out of the way.