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15.06.2021 8:43:09
Re: How do you align upper shift lever and lower unit
See full version: How do you align upper shift lever and lower unit
Re: How do you align upper shift lever and lower unit
yeah I can move the lu shift shaft almost a full turn without any trouble does it mean its out of whack or broke. thanks for all your help i'll try it tonight and see where i get Erik [links]
Re: How do you align upper shift lever and lower unit [links]
Re: How do you align upper shift lever and lower unit [links]
The shifter on these lower units uses a spring loaded clutch.The clutch is spring loaded into forward.As you turn the shift shaft, the cam pushes the pin and moves the clutch to the neutral position and then the reverse position. <br />Your problem is that you turned your shifter counter clockwise right past the reverse position and into a position where the shifter moves freely for around a half turn with only forward gear felt.<br /><br />I have found it is much easier to just put the boat shifter in the reverse position.Then get a 11/32 six point socket and put it on the shift shaft for the lower.turn the shift shaft counter clockwise until pressure is felt then a little more(you should feel a slight click) at that point grab the prop and see if it spins freely both ways(as in nuetral).Now turn the shifter a little more until the next notch is felt(this should be reverse)verify by turning the driveshaft,the prop should turn backward.Next line up the lower and stab it in there lining up the upper shift shaft and the lower shift shaft as you go.<br />Hopefully this helps. <br />Good luck <br />Adam [links]
Re: How do you align upper shift lever and lower unit here
Replace the grommet and close the cable retainer cover.
Fit the shift cable barrel into the lowest hole of the barrel holder in the lower engine cowling. The barrel holder must slide freely into the retaining pocket. [links]
Pull the forward-most grommet free. Pull the barrel holder free. Lock the shift cable in place on the shift pin lever using the retainer latch. [links]
Ask an assistant to turn the propeller by hand as you move the control handle from "Forward" to "Neutral" and "Neutral" to "Reverse" to ensure the adjustment changes gears. [links]
Locate the cable retainer cover, found on the lower engine cowling. Open the cover with a screwdriver. [links]
When you remove the carburetor from your Yamaha outboard motor, or if the remote shift lever hesitates when you move the motor into or out of gear, you probably need to adjust the shift cable. Usually, you have to take slack out of the cable, but whether there's too much slack or the cable seems short, the procedure for making the adjustment is the same. Either way, the procedure for setting your shift cable to rights is the same, too. here
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In the photo below is the 5" water tube extension needed for the long-shaft conversion. Also used is a O-Ring seal # 202893 which slid inside the tube extension and was secured inside the expanded ring. Also in the photo below is the grommet, just to identify the direction the tube is placed, as this tube will insert into the grommet in the water pump outlet. here
Lower Units Not Changed That Much in 30 Years : The same basic lower unit is still used on the latest motors for both the 2 stroke and 4 stroke motors. The gears and water pump are the same. After 1993 the exterior was changed slightly to incorporate a built in place for zinc anodes and the water intake screen was changed from an internal screen to 2 external screw on screens. Other than that the older ones and the newer ones appear the same. Although most of the internal part numbers of the lower units on the 4 stroke are the same as the two stroke, the housing is slightly different along with a different driveshaft. There are significant differences, so much so that it is not possible to interchange from the 2 to 4 stroke. The housing is physically smaller on the 4 stroke and has only 4 bolts holding it together.
Converting Motors With One Shaft Length to Another Length : This question comes up enough that it needs it's own article. First some background as to the whats and whys involved.
In the lower photo below, I am not sure that this 5" tube extension is factory or not, but have seen many of them and have made my own as explained below. They are a tight enough slip fit to the upper tube that no appreciable loss of water is observed. here
When you get these 6 bolts removed, the gear case unit should drop down about 1/2�. � If it does not you may have to tap it with a plastic mallet. � Shift the gearshift into forward which will allow the shifting linkage shaft to drop down and align the retainer bolt with the gap between the housings. � When the lower unit does slide down, there will be, inside the housing in the front right hand side, a connector that is a strap with 2, �� holes top and bottom and 2 bolts that are screwed in sideways. � These bolts go in a circular groove of the shifting rod, which holds it in place. � Remove only the top screw. � It has a hex head and also a screwdriver slot. � Once this screw is removed the gear case unit can be moved downward and off.