Typically, there are two means of ensuring fasteners (screws, bolts, and nuts) to remain tight:
See full version: Torqued! Yamaha Bolt Torque Information
Typically, there are two means of ensuring fasteners (screws, bolts, and nuts) to remain tight:
“Elastic properties”? That’s not something everyone stops to think about. Elasticity is the ability of material to deform (stretch) and return to its original shape. Metal, like a rubber band, will stretch under tension and return to its original shape when the tension is removed. Unlike a rubber band, metal can only be stretched a very small amount and still be able to return to its original shape. Stretch metal too far and it will remain permanently stretched… or even break.
Technicians have used some variation of the following procedure for many years to torque bolts:
• Clean and dry all fastener threads (including the mating threads). In some situations the service manuals may specify to apply oil, thread sealant or thread locker to the fasteners.
• Partially tighten all fasteners.
• Tightening to spec using a torque wrench. A tightening pattern may be specified in the manual if multiple fasteners are involved.
• Some fasteners (cylinder head, crankshaft, connecting rod, and crankcase) may specify tightening in steps until final torque is achieved. Newer Yamaha four-stroke models specify tightening procedures for some applications not previously used on older models for similar applications. “Torque-to-angle” procedures have become the preferred method of achieving the desired bolt stretch on bolts used in highly stressed applications such as cylinder heads, flywheels, crankshafts, and connecting rod. here
Actually I'm a pretty good outboard mechanic when they are Johnson/Evinrude pre 1960 models, but I no longer work out of a tool box and the new ones are SO different. [links]
Or, where can I look up the info I need? more
I have a 1999 Yamaha C60 TLRY 3 cyl, 2 stroke outboard motor. Got a new head, gaskets and cover ordered for it, but I need a little info.
A Yamaha, Haynes, etc shop manual would have the specifics and would pay for itself very quickly. (I don't know your specific head torque) more
Do I need any gasket sealant for this? If so what kind (brand)?
I'm also smart enough to know it's what you learn after you know it all that counts! [links]
3.2268) Measuring point “H” mm (in) 10 (0.4) Oversize 1st mm (in) 72.25 (2.844)* 82.25 (3.238)* 2nd mm (in) 72.50 (2.854) 82.50 (3.248) Offset mm (in) 0.5 (0.0197) 1.0 (0.039) [direction] [Exhaust side] [Exhaust side] Piston ring: Sectional sketch Top ring & 2nd ring Type Keystone B mm (in) 2.0 (0.08) T mm (in) 3.0 (0.12) 3.2 (0.13) End gap [installed] Top ring & 2nd ring mm (in) 0.3 here
126) Full-opening tempera- ture °C (°F) 60 (140) Valve lift mm (in) 3 (0.12) Item Unit Model 50hp 60hp 70hp 75hp 80hp 90hp Ignition system: Ignition timing at full reversed ATDC degree 7 ± 1 8 ± 1 at full advanced BTDC degree 22 ± 1 20 ± 1 22 ± 1 cam roller pick-up ATDC degree 7 ± 1 8 ± 1 Piston position at full advanced BTDC mm (in) 3.23 ± 0.28 (0.127 ± 0.11) 2.68 ± 0.26 (0.106± 0.010) 2.83 ± 0.27 (0.111 ± 0.011) 3.41 ± 0.29 (0.134± 0.011) Charging coil resistance [20°C (68°F)] Ω 136 [links]
3.229) Taper limit mm (in) 0.08 (0.003) Out of round limit mm (in) 0.05 (0.002) Piston: Piston to cylinder clearance mm (in) 0.050 here
0.0026) <Limit> mm (in) 0.105 (0.0041) 0.115 (0.0045) Piston size “D” mm (in) 71.945 here
0.24 (Black/White – Black) Secondary coil resis- tance [20°C (68°F)] kΩ 3.26
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