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mariner 60 HP circa 2010 engine no to follow Not rated yet
I have a shetland 459 about 18ft long with my Mariner at low revs she is a bit dificult to keep steady in a straight line. i also want to know if I risk … more
Mercury, model 800 direct charge, 1972 Not rated yet
Replaced fuel tank, fuel lines, installed fuel pump diaphragm and check valves,an electric fuel pump, went through 2 sets of caburators cleaning and trying, … [links]
Mariner 90hp 1987 Not rated yet
Engine starts and runs fine but once turned off won't restart and trim won't work since 20amp fuse under cowling is blown. Have not been able to find … [links]
Mariner 40hp 4 cylinder 1996 2 stroke Not rated yet
Runs fine up to 1/3 throttle then when applying from a 1/3 throttle to full the engine misfires terribly. Just goes bahh, bahh, bahh. and wont accelerate. …
Re: 1998 Mercury EFI Loss of High end RPM [links]
Re: 1998 Mercury EFI Loss of High end RPM more
This should read 5900 not 6900 sorry about that.<br /><br />EricS
Re: 1998 Mercury EFI Loss of High end RPM
Re: 1998 Mercury EFI Loss of High end RPM [links]
hello<br /> by the fact that you did see 5900 tells me the propis correct. it also tells me odds are there is no mechanical problem. bad/broken reeds affect idle. bad switchboxes and such affect idle. the tps could be bad but I doubt it. what you really need to do is rebuild the low pressure fuel pump. test the fuel rail pressure at the rpm and load of the failure and clean the high pressure pump filter. most ign failures at high speed are not smooth, the motor will usually shake. by the fact that it was sold usually indicates it spent a long time sitting. you may also try running it on a 6 gallon remote tank to eliminate hull fuel systems.I rather doubt the ECU is bad. they just dont fail that often.<br /> its time for a methodical testing procedure. you Must have a DVM, the TPS test harness, a high pressure fuel pump and a peak reading voltmeter. then follow the test procedures in the book. the merc EFI tester is also nice but must be used in conjunction with the rest of the test equipment.
Found this thread and began to diagnose. here
I have not been able to confirm if the beep I am hearing is the oil system beep. [links]
OK Here goes. You need to differentiate if it is the water or oil alarm. You do that by looking for a little (I mean very small) red LED low on the left side front of the motor. Turn on the ignition key but NOT far enough to start the engine. Wait for the alarm to begin. If the red LED comes on, you have a water problem. The LED is VERY difficult to tell if it is lit, and I often have to get my eyes within a couple of inches to tell if it is lit. If it is lit, you have a water in your gas. If not, you have an oil issue. Both use the same audible alarm but use the LED light to differentiate which is causing the problem. The oil sensor is in the top cap of the oil resivor on the top of the engine. The only thing the oil alarm tells you is if that internal tank is full or not. You are already saying you can visually see that it is. If you are sure that it is the oil alarm going off, you can go to merc dealer and get a new sensor. They keep them in stock. If you want to see if oil is mixing with the gas, on the right side of the engine as you face it from the front is a silver panel with a cylinder built into it in thefront of it. At the bottom is a brass plug. open it and catch the gas in a jar or can. You can tell by looking at color of it if the oil is mixing with the gas. Good luck Bayfun more
OK Here goes. You need to differentiate if it is the water or oil alarm. You do that by looking for a little (I mean very small) red LED low on the left side front of the motor. Turn on the ignition key but NOT far enough to start the engine. Wait for the alarm to begin. If the red LED comes on, you have a water problem. The LED is VERY difficult to tell if it is lit, and I often have to get my eyes within a couple of inches to tell if it is lit. If it is lit, you have a water in your gas. If not, you have an oil issue. Both use the same audible alarm but use the LED light to differentiate which is causing the problem. The oil sensor is in the top cap of the oil resivor on the top of the engine. The only thing the oil alarm tells you is if that internal tank is full or not. You are already saying you can visually see that it is. If you are sure that it is the oil alarm going off, you can go to merc dealer and get a new sensor. They keep them in stock. If you want to see if oil is mixing with the gas, on the right side of the engine as you face it from the front is a silver panel with a cylinder built into it in thefront of it. At the bottom is a brass plug. open it and catch the gas in a jar or can. You can tell by looking at color of it if the oil is mixing with the gas. Good luck Bayfun here
Re: 1998 Mercury 200 HP EFI Oil Alarm Problems!! here
The 2 most common ways to reset your car computer is by either unplugging the battery or by resetting the fuse related to the engine control module here
Disconnect the battery and Switch the ignition key to the on position for about 15 minutes should reset the ECU [links]
Resetting your cars ECU can also be useful when modifications are done on the vehicle. In this instance, you want to reset your engine control modules manually through the fuse box. The fuse box is located on the passenger side next to the battery. When your vehicle has properly warmed up then you want to turn your vehicle back off and unplug both fuses, cut power by disconnecting the battery . After a few minutes all the old data should be reset so plug the fuses back in and turn your vehicle back on. You will want to leave your vehicle at idle for at least 10 minutes which will give your ECM enough time to “learn” any new modifications installed on your vehicle. Because the auto ECU is such a sensitive module, it is very important to reset the unit after modifications are installed or else the new modifications may conflict with the way the engine performed previously. more
Resetting your cars ecu, should not be a hassle at all as there are many more ways to reset your ECU and there are many more reasons for doing so. Resetting your car computer will do no harm to your vehicle and should always be done when any replacements are installed like a fuel filter, knock sensor even you when after work on your car air conditioning or any diagnostics are performed . Do not hesitate to check your repair manuals or the owners manual if you want to replace your vehicle ECM. here
If your check engine light comes on then chances are there may be an internal electrical issue within your vehicle that must be addressed. Before replacing any parts you want to reset your ECM to ensure that part replacements are absolutely necessary. There are a few ways to reset your Engine control modules. One way is by disconnecting the battery cable for 2 to 3 minutes and waiting to see if the check engine light comes back on upon reconnecting the battery and start the car. Drive the car for at least 10 miles for the ecu to learn, if there is a problem with your vehicle then the check engine light will come back on and you can analyze the fault code that the ECM throws. These codes will guide you towards the root of the problem and you can begin replacing parts to try to fix the issue. Upon installation of the new parts you want to continue to reset your computer so that the engine control can “learn” the new parts and store this new data. PS ( make sure you do not have any battery cable issues and have a backup power handy before you reset the ecu). here
My SS2000 is very sensitive to trim and height. With my prior motor, higher engine height the faster it went. The last 1/2" (12 mm) was worth a lot, maybe 10 mph. That was with the small XR4 gearcase. Of course the chances of a hook go up if the engine is raised to far or trimmed to far. more
Dave,
Well you guys don't want them so we have to take them. All I read on Scream and fly are complaints about the engine being expensive and without warranty.
Weather conditions were no less than miserable - with overcast skies, high humidity and temperatures hovering in the low 40s making things treacherous for drivers and trying for crews and spectators alike. The APBA had sanctioned two days for the records - but with a weather forecast calling for three inches of rain on Tuesday, Mercury officials decided it was best to try and get all the runs in on Monday. [links]
I thought you had one of the Gen 1 200XS engines. Old enough to be out of warranty now, but I would have expected a warranty back then. more