randomguy7
22.04.2021 23:04:01
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Keep in mind to never over torque your spark plugs. Most only require them to be hand tight, especially with anti-seize. Keep it between 10-15 ft-lbs. here
What defines a cold plug and a hot plug is the length of their insulator nose. A shorter nose offers less surface area to absorb heat and a shorter path to dissipate heat to the cylinder head. A longer nose offers the opposite – greater surface area to absorb heat and a longer path to dissipate it—resulting in the firing tip to stay hotter. Furthermore, plugs with longer insulating noses have greater exposure to the gas igniting around the tip due to their greater length (they protrude further into the ignited gas). Other factors that may affect heat range can be composition material and their thermal conductivity characteristics. more
Step 6: Apply dielectric grease to top of plug and anti-seize to the threads if you want and reinstall plugs, again not torquing over 33 ft-lbs. Reinstall ignition coils and plug everything back in. [links]
Check all connections of the ignition coils and injectors and start engine. Some smoke may come out from burning carbon buildup from the plugs and from the penetrating agent. If one of the plugs cracked, refer to Ford TSB 08-7-6 which illustrates how to use the motorcraft broken spark plug removal tool. [links]
We now know all automotive spark plugs (really, we could broaden this statement to encompass all internal combustion engine spark plugs) employ copper as the core of their electrodes. So where do the crazy terms like ‘nickel-alloy’, ‘platinum’, and ‘iridium’ come from? Well, these materials are what encompasses​ the core, and are what make up the outer electrode. The first and foremost, nickel-alloy, is the usual material of choice for OEM spark plugs. It is the cheapest, and handles its duties without issue in stock motors. The subsequent two, platinum and iridium, are harder, more durable materials, able to withstand higher heat, with the latter being the hardest of them all (supposedly iridium is 6x as hard as platinum). When engines are modified out of stock parameters (i.e. more power), is when these harder materials will outlast basic nickel-alloy, ensuring a strong spark over a greater period of time, and under hotter conditions.
Capacity
Additive Friction Modifier 118 ml (4 oz)
Rear axle lubricant 1.23-1.37 liters (2.6-2.9 pints)
Rear axle lubricant level 6.35 mm (1/4 inch) from the bottom of the fill hole
Clearance, Tolerance and Adjustments
Maximum carrier spread 0.762 mm (0.030 in)
Maximum differential ring gear backface runout 0.076 mm (0.003 in)
Maximum differential case runout 0.076 mm (0.003 in)
Backlash between differential ring gear and pinion teeth 0.203 mm (0.008 in)-0.330 mm (0.013 in)
Preferred backlash 0.254 mm (0.010 in)
Maximum backlash variation between teeth 0.1016 mm (0.004 in)
Maximum radial runout of rear axle pinion flange in assembly TIR 0.254 mm (0.010 in)
Available drive pinion bearing adjustment shim in steps of: 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) 0.254 mm (0.010 in)-0.965 mm (0.038 in)
Lubricant deflector to differential housing cover 5.08 mm (0.200 in)-6.35 mm (0.250 in)
Engine
Displacement 4.6L (4V) (281 CID)
Number of cylinders 8
Bore 90.2 mm (3.55 in)
Stroke 90.0 mm (3.54 in)
Firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Oil pressure 138-310 kPa
Oil capacity 6 ± 0.25 a
Compression ratio 8.5:1
Cylinder Head and Valve Train
Cylinder head gasket surface flatness 0.10 mm (0.004 inch) max. overall
Combustion chamber volume 52.6 ± 0.5 cm
Valve arrangement (front to rear) b
Intake (left hand): S-P-S-P-S-P-S-P
Valve arrangement (front to rear)
Exhaust (left hand): E-E-E-E-E-E-E-E
Valve arrangement (front to rear)
Intake (right hand): P-S-P-S-P-S-P-S
Valve arrangement (front to rear)
Exhaust (right hand): E-E-E-E-E-E-E-E
Valve guide bore diameter -
Valve stem diameter-intake 6.975-6.995 mm (0.2754-0.2746 inch)
Valve stem diameter-exhaust 6.949-6.970 mm (0.2744-0.2736 inch)
Valve stem-to-guide clearance-intake 0.020-0.069 mm (0.00078-0.00272 inch)
Valve stem-to-guide clearance-exhaust 0.046-0.094 mm (0.0018-0.0037 in)
Valve head diameter-intake 37 mm (1.46 inch)
Valve head diameter-exhaust 30 mm (1.18 inch)
Valve face runout 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Valve face angle 45.5 degrees
Valve seat width-intake 1.8-2.2 mm (0.071-0.086 inch)
Valve seat width-exhaust 1.8-2.2 mm (0.071-0.086 inch)
Valve seat runout 0.05 mm (0.002 inch)
Valve seat angle 45 degrees
Valve spring free length-intake 42.16 mm (1.6598 inch)
Valve spring free length-exhaust 42.16 mm (1.6598 inch)
Valve spring squareness - Valve spring compression pressure-intake 711.47 N @ 26.19 mm (159.9 lb-ft @ 1.031 inch)
Valve spring compression pressure-exhaust 711.47 N @ 26.19 mm (159.9 lb-ft @ 1.031 inch)
Valve spring installed height-intake -
Valve spring installed height-exhaust -
Valve spring installed pressure-intake 289.1 N @ 36.14 mm (64.99 lb-ft @ 1.4228 inch)
Valve spring installed pressure-exhaust 289.1 N @ 36.14 mm (64.99 lb-ft @ 1.4228 inch)
Roller follower ratio 1.8:1
Hydraulic Lash Adjuster
Diameter 16.000-15.988 mm (0.6299-0.6294 inch)
Clearance-to-bore 0.018-0.069 mm (0.000709-0.002717 inch)
Service limit 0.016 mm (1.0006299 inch)
Hydraulic leakdown rate c 5-25 seconds
Collapsed lash adjuster gap 0.80-1.20 mm (0.0315-0.0472 inch)
Synchronizer
Synchronizer blocking ring to conical face runout
1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th & 6th gear 0.38 mm (0.01 in)
Synchronizer blocking ring to conical face runout
Reverse gear 0.75 mm (0.03 in)
Runout -
End play 0.025-0.165 mm (0.00098-0.00649 inch)
a With installation of a new filter.
b P=Primary, S=Secondary, E=Exhaust
c Time necessary for plunger to leak down 1.6 mm of travel with 222 N force and leak down fluid in tappet. more
Rear Drive Axle/Differential - Ford 8.8-Inch IRS
Routine maintenance with regard to the spark plugs occurs every 20,000 to 30,000 miles. You should check the wires, plugs, and distributor, if installed. Look for cracked or separated wires on the plug wires. Inspect the interior connection for signs of corrosion on the wire on both ends of the wire. Replace any damaged wires. Look for signs of soot, oil, carbon buildup, or physical damage to the plug. Soot, carbon buildup, and oil indicate excessive firing or weak seals. Physical damage can be the result of extreme explosions within the chamber. You should contact a mechanic for a full inspection at that point. Replace damaged or fouled plugs immediately. Always work on one plug at a time to avoid connecting the wrong wires. [links]
Spark plugs are the igniter within an engine. The gap on a spark plug is the distance between the electrodes. Electricity running through the plug will arc over the gap igniting the fuel in the engine. The proper gap ensures that the fuel will ignite each time. The average gap is 0.035 and 0.045 thousandths of an inch. Ford Mustangs raise that level just a little bit. more
The Ford recommended spark plug gap for the Mustang engine is 0.054 thousandths of an inch. You can measure the gap on the plug using a gap gauge available from any auto parts retailer. Adjusting the gap too high can cause misfires in the engine. Too low of a gap will result in a weak arc, which also can cause misfires. Aim for between 0.052 and 0.056 thousandths of an inch. Use the gap gauge to bend the arm on the spark plug out if the gap is too small. Lightly press the arm down with your finger if the gap is too large. more
Generic or stock spark plugs for four- and six-cylinder engines need to be gapped. Most spark plugs for eight-cylinders come pre-gapped but you should check them. Several aftermarket performance plugs are pre-gapped at the proper levels to allow for optimum performance. Platinum and iridium plugs offer more stable and consistent spark improving performance and gas mileage. The upgraded plugs are available for all makes and models of engines. more