[jelon94]

I have been doing some research and will be building a tank in the next few months. Going back and forth between designs.

[Ervin02]

Now I have a 6x2 piece of glass already, or if I go the 8' route I will get acrylic. here

[jemenake]

To seal the window I will use 5200 with almost no excess going to be in the water when filled. I have heard its not fish safe but also heard a few saying they have used it with no I'll affects. [links]

[suckless]

I have had 3 if these boats all lasted about 12 years before any leaks. The 3m product that used to fix the leaks is not made any longer so now I have my biggest leaks in bottom of transom. 2 years ago while in the water I applied Marine Hand Moldable White epoxy Putty Stick to the larger hole in the bottom center of transome on out and inside and fixed the leak over night while in the water. Last year before putting the boat in the water I cleaned the all around the bottom of the transom with rubbing alcohol and applied White Flex Glue all along bottom of transom, then taped the outside of the seams of the that area with the Black Flex tape, after this I had less water leaks than ever.
This year after unfolding the Porta-boat getting ready for a trip It leaked when testing before putting into water so now I will clean off all the tape and glue and redo, if this works I will keep the boat together and not fold up again and see if it will last one more year. This boat is well over 12 years old. more

[yrrryyoderj]

How To Fix A Possible Leak in a Porta-Bote Genesis Series 1- How To Test: With boat opened and raised on a rock or table, rear
seat plus transom inserted, pour a gallon of water into rear of boat
and tip the rear of hull downward so water is exposed to rear seams. Watch where water comes out. If it really does leak, it will be the
end of the center seam at the bottom of the boat (keel tubing). 2- How To Fix: With boat open, rear seat inserted. Insert transom
(but, not all the way down to bottom of hull). Stand outside hull.
Insert 3M 5200 Adhesive (available at Home Depot, West Marine,
etc. into outside rear seam at the very end of the exposed center
hinge. This is where the black neoprene “Y” shaped gasket is
exposed and where any water can come in. Squeeze the tube
so that enough finds its way into the hinge. Now, from the inside hull do the same at the very bottom rear
center where the seal is exposed. Lift up the black seal, clean
under it with alcohol and squeeze the sealant under the seal
on both sides of the hinge. 3- Important: Wait 5 full days for the 3M 5200 to cure before you
attempt to fold up the hull. After this time, rerun the same “leak test”.
This material expands up to 900% and will permanently seal the
Porta-Bote hull. PortaTech

[aksjfhasdkfjh8]

I have a twelve year old, 11 ft Genesis IV, Porta Bote with a small crack at the middle seam of the transom. Has anyone ever tried “Flex Glue” or Flex Tape” (as seen on TV) to repair this.
Glenn

[hilda4u]

My friend and I have successfully repaired a 6″ in length 5-6 stitch separation of the keel on a 10 ft. Porta Bote located below the front Bow water line.( Damage caused from running into Garage header), 1: Do Not Assemble Bote & work on a stable platform. 2: Carefully remove poly pipe from keel. 3: clean leak area using cleaning solvent or Iso. Alcohol around Polypropylene joining material & stitching. Dry the area.
4:observe the condition of the closed cell membrane (located and stitched between hull material of keel joining) leave it in-tact.t torn or broken.!
5 Purchase from a Automotive upholstery shop a small piece of closed cell membrane (if needed), and automotive/marine high heat adhesive “used for seems in environment exposed materials ” (it seals and forms a flexible membrane). 6: If Hull is separated enough and needs ‘New’ membrane’? ‘Cut a strip to length’, ‘Thoroughly Heat hull keel area using hot air gun ‘Required to open Polypropylene cellular composites’. slip the strip of membrane into separation areas from the bottom of Bote’ 1st. make small slits in new membrane, (only deep enough to fit new membrane full length in-between stitching) 7: inject ample amount of the adhesive between Polypropylene hull and in-between all areas of Membrane. 8: Clamp the repaired area together with screw clamps or Large Vice-grips, may need two pieces 2 x 2 or 2 x 4, to cover the area as a strong back vice. leave it on and in place all day.
9: If the Stitching is broken in keel damaged area?, and you don’t have a ‘Palm-a-Needle and Sail Thread’. Pilot drill 1/8″ in the factory stitched hole using “smallest bit possible” (DO NOT DRILL TOO LOW on the keel) . Purchase Stainless Steel rivets SS LF-46 Rivets, and backing washers these will have to be no larger than 3/8 x 1/8 shank with large ‘rivet head’ no larger than 1/8 backing washers. Rivet each stitch hole.
Good Luck and “Fair Winds and Following Seas” (AWSW1 Ken Shelton ) Colorado.

[Kir]

PRC was our sealer of choice, but harder to find. Was made for floats and makes 5200 seem difficult to use.

[jackkalis58]

I've sealed several sets of floats this way, and it works great. Do NOT put sealer inside floats. I've seen guys paint this stuff all over the inside of the floats. All that does is makes for a great place for corrosion to grow, and it really doesn't stop leaks all that well anyway. [links]

[mgoodn2244]

GCBC trained his wife. wow.
do you still have her? more

[John Doe]

Second, you need some performance numbers (sped and RPM at wide open throttle) to see how the prop is performing. here

[Raulo]

Sitting low in the water:
1. Water logged hull
2. Over rated weight limit
3. Poor Design/ Weight distribution issues
4. Maintenance issues more

[dooglus]

btw: I would never own a both without adjustable trim tabs. They are that good. here

[dianamonte03]

Obviously the first question is have you weighed the boat? A water logged hull could account for both of your issues here

[jstn]

You've identified two, unrelated and separate issues. Lets look at your problems.