teff
27.05.2021 19:27:40
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Pull spark plug, and give it a few tugs. Make sure that plug tip is touching the motor's metal. Do you have spark? If so, then pull off man overboard switch and retest. Spark should be gon with man overboard switch activated. I have a Briggs, and it has never failed me yet. I would consider making a stand of some sort so you don't have to deal with an oil mess everytime. Sure sounds like oil may have gotten on plug, and made it too wet to fire. more
Re: 5hp Briggs and Stratton outboard won't start here
Okay, I have finally found someone that has trouble starting their Briggs. I have had mine for 5 yrs and have had problems with it right from the start. The motor can sit in the garage on a stand all winter, and come spring I can hook up the fuel line and 1 to 2 pulls it will start right up and run fine. The problem is, when I get it on the boat and run it across the lake, shut it off by first putting it in neutral and then hitting the kill switch, then try to restart it, it won't start. It doesn't even sputter or backfire or anything. Now, this is not my first outboard, nor is it my first Briggs product, but, it is very frustrating to have to row back to the dock, with blisters on your hand from trying to start the motor. The blisters are not from rowing. I have contacted the Briggs people, and they recommended to adjust the neutral switch. I have done this, and the motor will start. Now, if this is the problem, how does it get out of adjustment? By just shifting from neutral to forward and back to neutral? Also, I have asked them if the motor should have spark in forward or reverse. Their reply was that it should have spark only in neutral when trying to start. I have spark in any gear, but the motor will not start until I play with the neutral switch adjustment. Crazy.
Does anyone know how to disconnect the neutral switch, to see if this is the problem?
Once the motor will start, it runs great.
Just maybe, we might be having the same problems. (sorry if I stole the thread)
If the engine in emitting black smoke, this could mean that the air filter is dirty, the fuel could have gone bad, and/or the carburetor is flooded. Start by checking your air filter, if it looks okay, move onto replacing the gas. If the problem continues, refer to the following for cleaning/replacing your Carburetor here
The carburetor regulates how air and fuel move through the engine. A dirty carburetor can cause poor engine performance or starting problems. [links]
Check your oil level and appearance every time you use your engine while it is cold. Your oil typically needs to be changed each season or after every 25 hours of use [links]
If your spark plugs look good, problems with your ignition system can also be preventing a spark. [links]
If the engine is emitting white or blue smoke, this means your engine is burning oil. Check our Engine emits white/blue smoke while running FAQ for assistance. here
You should also check to make sure the spark plug gap is set correctly. An improper spark plug gap could lead to engine knocking and poor performance. [links]
The model number on the engine is 130292-0141-06 (I've only been able to find model number 130292-0141-99 in parts diagrams online but they do seem to work). here
Hi all, new to the site. I recently had an old rototiller given to me by a friend. It was a family heirloom type of thing for them, but everyone has gotten tired of storing it, so it fell into my lap. It has not been used in several years, but it did run every time it was tried up until last year. When I got it, the first thing I did was check for spark - negative. I've put a new electronic coil on it to eliminate the old points and condesor system, and replaced the spark plug. I have good spark at the plug, but even with spraying starting fluid into the carb there is absolutely nothing - not even a pop like it is trying to start. [links]
The carb is tank-mounted, and when I sprayed starting fluid into it last night, the fluid ran right out of the bottom of the carb onto the top of the tank. When I tried to start it (after spraying starting fluid) with the air cleaner off it shot spray out of the top of the carb. Is this normal? I am very new to small engine repair, and figured this was a good project to learn on since I'm only out the $$ I choose to spend on parts and tools if I can't get it running. When I tried to start it last night, I noticed that every once in a while (maybe every 3 or 4 pulls) there would be no resistance on the cord at all. I'd pull it all the way out, let it rewind, and then I'd get tension again. I am going to pick up a compression tester kit on my way home from work tonight to check compression, and I'm going to try spraying the starting fluid directly into the cylinder instead of into the carb to see if that makes a difference. Does anyone else here have any other suggestions/recommendations? I have to have the garden tilled so my wife can plant this weekend, so I'm quickly approaching the point that if I can't get it running I"m going to have to use my cultivator attachment on my weed wacker power head. [links]
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