piotrp
14.05.2021 15:14:21
Re: Briggs and Stratton 5hp outboard won't run more
See full version: Briggs and Stratton 5hp outboard won; t run
Re: Briggs and Stratton 5hp outboard won't run more
Re: Briggs and Stratton 5hp outboard won't run more
Thanks, I got it running, RRIT, it's all in the challenge of making the darn thing run. The problem was the rev limiter chip was blow, causing it to go into limp mode. It won't start in limp mode. Briggs may have redesigned the new rev limiter to be more durable or it maybe good for a one time use. I'll use the engine as is and just idle it only out of water. Even a two stroke will blow if you give it wot with no load. If the motor goes it goes. The rev limiter is 2/3 rds of the price of a new motor. Everyones in put here was greatly appreciated. Robert [links]
Maybe by the time you move down here somebody will be making a mud motor with more features. The local marinas are fighting them because there is no parts or service profits so it's tough to find them. But it is a clearly superior fit for skinny water. They just need enough sales volume to get a gearcase for bigger HP and a real muffler to tone down the noise.
From some clues I picked up from other sites, I'm interested in the idea that the fan on the flywheel keeps it cool enough when it is running, but when you turn it off, the heat from the engine causes a short or open somewhere. I know I have spark, but could the heat be changing the timing? [links]
The only thing that works is to go inside for about thirty minutes and have a cup of coffee. After the engine has cooled down, it starts fine.
The solenoid itself could be faulty.
DB,
There is no sound at all of any ignition, (no brief starts, no backfire through the carb, no puff of smoke out the exhaust), just the steady grind of the starter motor. There is sometimes a white vapor coming out the exhaust which would lead me to believe that it is too rich. more
Yes I'd agree. too rich. Is the air filter clean? Maybe carb set a bit too rich ? more
So, I decided to take the Carburetor apart again and went through thoroughly with a degreaser to clean out every inlet, pin-hole, hinge, etc. that I could find. Put back together; sprayed a few quick spurts of starter fluid; refilled with new gasoline. It started and was working, but blue smoke was pouring out the muffler, and continued to billow for a bit even after I let go of the kill-switch control bar handle. The engine is obviously hot. The oil reservoir is full with new oil. here
Also, there is no separate throttle control on the unit; the choke inside the Carburetor just stays normally open. here
Get an inline spark tester and install it on your mower.
If you can get it to start, the go mow & watch the tester which should glow solid red.
If it starts to flash then you module is on its way out or there is a brake down in the insulation on the ignition control wire. more
There is no such thing as "a little bent on one end"
Replace the blade it will be out of balance and will do damage to your engine. here
Next we need the model number of the engine there ar many different B & S engine with different carbs.
If it had hit something , with the blade , it is common for the key between the flywheel and top shaft , to sheer & the flywheel move ( rotationaly ) in respect to the top shaft . Rhis throws the ignition timing off . here
The only other thing to keep it out of time is the cam shaft is damaged in some way. Those plastic cams are epoxied together and can move on you. Example The lobes will be in a different spot because the gear wheel can rotate on the shaft part of the cam. You will have to compare it with a known good cam and look at it very closely. here
The keys are inexpensive and available at Ace Hardware & other places that sell mowers & supplies . more
Pull the rope starter assembly off and check . I made a puller to get the flywheel off ( after I removed the nut at the top shaft ) . here
If it had hit something , with the blade , it is common for the key between the flywheel and top shaft , to sheer & the flywheel move ( rotationaly ) in respect to the top shaft . Rhis throws the ignition timing off .