BobLemoine
31.05.2021 8:16:40
You should have one wire and one sender for the gauge and one wire and one switch/sending unit for the warning horn. here
See full version: How to test 4. 3 temp sensor
You should have one wire and one sender for the gauge and one wire and one switch/sending unit for the warning horn. here
Now that I have found the correct sensor tested it and it is fine. I then removed the thermostat and is was pretty rough looking. My 10 year old son was playing around scraping rust off the thermostat housing. When he was done I decided to blow the rust out. When I blew on the bypass it sounded restricted. Sure enough there was a piece of old impeller buried deep within the housing. There was no way to see or feel this blockage. It took me almost an hour to get it out but I am now confident the engine will get to the right temperature.
Ok figured it out. There are 2 of these things. There is a switch on the front of the thermostat housing for the alarm system (single wire spade connector). The sensor for the gauge is in the intake manifold just to the left of the thermostat housing (single wire loop held on with nut). It is under the hoses and hard to see. Just to confuse us Volvo parts lists the switch in the Cooling section. The sensor is listed in the Manifold area. here
Grounding the sensor wire makes the temp sensor go to full hot. Part number 3852029 for $23. here
Sender is open so I am pretty sure it is bad. My next concern is when I ground the wire, I get the warning beeping but the temp gauge does not move. The gauge does move a little bit when I switch on the ignition. If I disconnect the brown wire at the gauge it does not move when ignition is switched on. So based on that I think the brown wire is good to the back. This is my first boat with a a warning beeper. more
3 Press ESC-button to leave the fault list. more
2 Look up the fault code in Fault Code Register and take the recommended measures.
When a malfunction has occurred and the diagnostic system has generated one or more fault codes, these are read out differently depending on the equipment used. Please refer to “Fault code messages”.
3 When the fault has been rectified, the fault code disappears from the display and the diagnostic [links]
Catalyst Tank Reagent Quality more
Ambient Air Temperature Sensor
Engine Throttle position (cold)
Lost Communication with Reductant Control Module on Engine Subnet [links]
Looked at a Nelson re-powered with CAT 3126's a while back, which had dropped a valve at low hours. Owner wanted to go after CAT. However when we trialled with rebuilt motor EGT's were close to 600C and back pressure was 4 inches of Hg. CAT had signed off 'clean' installation, owners pet numpty engine tec had encouraged a bit more graunch on the prop pitch and fitted Vetus water lift mufflers (pet hate) AFTER engines had been signed off. [links]
Modern engines are great, until some clown installs one.
I am not a Volvo person, however from a purely generic diesel engineering standpoint I would start to be a little concerned at anything much above 450C @ WOT and would treat anything over 500C as the danger zone, not a healthy operating envioment for exhaust valves.
The 63p was volvos first 5.5 litre engine to be fitted with a wastgated turbo, and over the years it has suffered may failures.
I have measured before and after on my engine and difference only 50-100deg. 1bar boost. more
I would not consider doing an engine survey without recording EGT's, both CAT and Cummins have the information on their data sheets and factory risers have 1/8 NPT plug in the short dry section before the spray head and custom spray heads should ALWAYS incorporate a test point, without it how on earth can you measure EGT and back pressure when signing off an engine installation. [links]
1 Check cable harness and connectors between water in fuel switch and
Conditions for fault code:
Working range: 0 – 7 bar = 0 – 700 kPa