See full version: 5 Outboard Engine Quick Fix Tips
This happens over and over again, because many quick-disconnect fittings that attach the fuel line to the outboard are just plain cheap. The same goes for the barbs that attach the fitting and the fuel line, and/or the hose clamps that secure them. With time, all of these connections tend to start leaking or allow air to get sucked in. more
Don’t let these common outboard motor problems—which may be easy to fix—ruin your day of boating.
Modern outboard engines have come a long way, whether you’re talking about the now-common four-stroke or modern DFI motors. In both cases, reliability is far better than it was in decades past, fuel efficiency has increased, and problems like smoky exhaust and ear-splitting sound levels are ancient history. But that doesn't mean your new outboard is infallible. In fact, there are a few common problems with modern outboard motors that crop up again and again. These will leave some of us sitting at the dock, wishing instead of fishing. For those of us who know the quick fix solution, however, these problems are easy to take care of.
QUICK FIX: First, squeeze the ball as you watch the fitting between the engine and the line, the barb and the hose, the barb on either end of the ball, and if it’s visible, the fitting between the line and the tank. You need to isolate the leak, and seal it. If there’s no visible fuel leak, the ball may be sucking in air; squeeze it again and again with your ear next to each connection, as you listen for a gurgle. Once the leak has been isolated, you may be able to fix it by cutting off a section of the fuel line and re-attaching the barb or fitting with a fresh piece of hose, or by simply replacing a hose-clamp. If the fitting itself has gone bad, you can sometimes push it to one side or the other to temporarily get the engine running. Once you do so, the draw of the engine is often enough to keep the flow of fuel moving.
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As stated, the motor screams neutral. If I pull the choke half way out, it settles down fine and goes into gear. Then it runs fine with choke pressed back in. It was suggested that I clean the carb. However, as I looked it over last night, I'm wondering if this could be a choke adjustment?
Take a look at the video in this link (apologies if there's an ad) https://imgur.com/a/NiApNyE [links]
My regular mechanic has no time and I'm no wrencher, but it seems the problem is in the choke mechanism vs carb.
Wide open throttle (WOT) seems to strike fear into the heart of many boat owners. Most of the time when I ask, people will tell me they never run their engines wide open out of concern that they will abuse or damage them. The engine manufacturers sure don’t see it that way. Although it varies from brand to brand and among models within each manufacturer, each engine has a rating that applies to running at maximum rpm. One John Deere model spec reads this way: “This rating is for applications that use full power for no more than 30 minutes out of each eight hours and cruising speed the remainder of the eight hours, and do not operate for the remaining 16 hours of the day.” Cummins puts it this way: “This power rating is intended for infrequent use in variable load applications where full power is limited to one hour out of every eight hours of operation. Also, reduced power operation must be at or below cruise speed (rpm).” Some MAN engines are rated to run at full throttle 100% of the time, up to 1,000 hours per year.
Fuel System: Your fuel filter should have a vacuum gauge with a tracer needle that shows the highest reading experienced since you reset it (it should be set back to zero each morning). In a previous article, we looked into the details of fuel filtration and noted that when the vacuum pressure reaches about 7”, it is time for a filter change. If your filters look good, it is possible you have contaminants blocking the pickup tube in your fuel tank. In order to rule out the pickup tube, the fuel lines, and the fuel filter, it might be necessary to bypass all of those components by running the engine off of a small portable fuel supply. Make sure you have a clean container and clean fuel, since you will be bypassing your primary fuel filter. If the engine still misses the desired rpm, restricted fuel supply probably does not cause it. Keep in mind that diesel engines cycle a lot more fuel than they burn. Depending on the engine you might be pulling 70 gph or more. Make sure you have ample supply fuel for the test.
Restrictions in the fuel supply often show up on the vacuum gauge at the primary fuel filter. Reset the tracer needle (red) after each run. The needle will remain at the high reading for each day’s run and can point to a clogged filter or some other restriction in the fuel lines.
I have a neighbor who revs his engine loudly over and over again, for anywhere from 15 or 20 minutes up to several hours at a time, several days a week, and has been doing this for over a year. It frequently backfires loudly as the engine slows down. It sounds like I live on a racetrack, and it's impossible to concentrate or rest while it's going on. I've talked with him several times, and told him how disturbing it is, and he says he's tuning the engine. Is there really a need to do this to tune the engine?
Side note: It is likely, depending on where you live, that there are noise ordinances in place that he is exceeding. I'm sure a friendly visit from the police would make him think twice before he revs up his engine again.
In that case you may be idling almost entirely on the PWM Time Threshold. So rev the engine occasionally as you are tuning the PWM parameters, to ensure that you haven't gone too low.