[GeorgeH]

The secret to a long life for a plastic cover is to stretch it tightly over the frame and around the hull. Polyethylene tarps can’t stand much flapping and flogging and will quickly succumb to fatigue and abrasion. This may mean an occasional trip to a boatyard to routinely check the lashings. Also make sure that the cover is protected from sharp points and rough surfaces. Scrap carpeting or old towels taped to protrusions will help. Conduit is smooth enough not to need padding; it is the connectors, bolt heads and other sharp corners that do the damage. more

[sturle]

Perhaps the reason why many fiberglass boats are left uncovered is that their owners remember the problems of building a wooden frame over their wooden boats from years gone by. A complicated framework of 2×4 trusses and furring strips is as expensive and time-consuming to build as it is difficult to store for the summer.

[TheOddShot]

At one time, a custom-fitted canvas boat cover was a hallmark of the well found yacht. With the widespread growth of yachting came cheaper alternatives such as covers made from short ends of awning material or old sails. Next it was clear polyethylene-fragile, degradable in sunlight, and rarely tough enough to last through an entire winter. here

[robcontact]

There is an alternative to the wooden frame, however, and to the poor practice of using the mast for a ridgepole. A durable, lightweight and inexpensive framework of thin-walled steel electrical conduit can be easily assembled in less than a day. Best of all, it is reusable, easy to store, and can be built with only a hacksaw (or tubing cutter), a screwdriver, a tubing bender, and a wrench.

[cbrendanjarvisi]

Two curved risers, attached to the bow pulpit and stern rail, support a fore-and-aft ridgepole made of straight lengths of tubing. The ridgepole is supported along its length by a series of arches, made from two lengths of tubing connected at the top. The arches attach to the lifeline stanchions, giving the frame a great deal rigidity. When laying out the arches, try to allow enough headroom to permit passage fore and aft on deck with the frame and cover in place. If the mast is left stepped (not recommended), run the ridgepole off-center to one side of the mast. here

[canadaduane]

When a cover begins showing signs of wear (thin spots where light shines through, for instance) it can be preserved with strips of good quality duct tape. Duct tape will stick well to a plastic cover-at least for one season-if it is rubbed on well.

[LobsterMan]

Yellow china marker ("grease pencil") more

[richardfields112]

Use the china marker to draw a line over each joint fitting and along each piece of PVC pipe inserted into the fitting. These lines will act as "journal marks," to help you align the pieces as you glue them together. After you draw journal marks on the PVC, disassemble the frame. Paint the inside of each 90-degree elbow fitting and tee fitting, and the ends of each piece of pipe with PVC purple primer and allow the primer to dry completely.

[Kaporen]

PVC layout for a winter boat cover frame here

[shelbsok67]

90-degree PVC elbow fittings

[miernik]

Finally, take one last measurement from the bow rub rail to the stern rub rail, from end to end. Drape the measuring tape over any high points, like railings and the windshield for an accurate measurement. More information can be noted about the specific dimensions of your boat if you want to get the tightest fit, but for an easier project, this should suffice.

[billm543]

The best types of materials for making a resistant boat cover are hard plastic or heavy canvas. To purchase enough material according to your boat’s dimensions, use your total end-to-end measurement and divide it by the width of your fabric bolt. This will give you the number of panels you’ll need in your cover. Then, for the total length of the fabric you need to buy, take the measurement of your boat at its widest point and multiply that by your number of panels. You may need to add about five percent to this total just to be sure you have enough fabric.

[nadav001]

Making a boat cover does not entail much work, but the benefits it proposes are numerous. Hence, it is a good idea to learn how to make your own. You might opt to buy a ready-made boat cover, but it may not be of a very good fit for your specific boat, not to mention that the cost of purchasing it will inevitably surpass the money involved in making one yourself. Besides, you can be as creative as you wish and choose a material and color you prefer. Read through these basic tips and steps and give it a try.

[zmauricepittmanj]

Re: My "PVC-based boat cover frame support" build here

[citizen]

19' cuddy cabin. I have gotten a lot of good ideas on here from various projects I've seen; of course every boat is different. Can't have a plan until you start in on your own boat. Intent is to get it kind of steep in order to let any rain and snow run off and not build up/puddle on top of it. Empty cockpit, so I have free reign of pole placement. Once I have an interior, I'll need to redesign it, but just want to protect what's left the best I can.

[namkeeno]

After looking at it from the rear taking this picture, I need to get those supports out a bit further. Maybe reverse the two sections of diagonal PVC. Going to build a mating section at the rear, and some cross-support; heck I don't know.

[NickB]

So, I need to rebuilt the back section again, and just put the three t-fittings next to each other, but I can maintin the angle. This will make the three supports taper to a more central point in the rear. Should still work. It also looks like it may be a bit tall. I'm not sure yet, won't know until I throw the cover on. I may need to end up taking the front down a bit still. I will temporarily hold the PVC T-fitting angles with a screw; and glue it once I'm positive.

[Jeniferleona]

Ahhh, so, I had a mega-huge brain fart building this thing. A lot of trial and error mixed up with some of my normal "over complication" of simple things. My intent for the back of the boat was to mirror the front, but just build it shorter so that it slopes towards teh back. I replicated the three "T-fittings" setup that I have up front, and finished building the support for it. Little did I even think, that because the two outer T-fittings are on different horizontal planes, they will never match up. I left them loose so that I could twist them into perfect alignment. Well, great, but since they are at an angle, they rotate at an angle. In/down, or out/up.:facepalm: here