Re: Use Of Polyester Resin On Wood - Don't Do It [links]
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Re: Use Of Polyester Resin On Wood - Don't Do It [links]
Re: Use Of Polyester Resin On Wood - Don't Do It here
The cost of epoxie resins around here is more the 50% more then poly resins.I used both.I would use epoxie over poly but not when it comes down to doing wood.Don't like the bluing,and having to wash in between coats.I find that I have been able to use poly resins in 35 drg weather,one thing I haven't tryed with epoxie.Thank God it doesn't get that cold here but once in a blue moon. here
Re: Use Of Polyester Resin On Wood - Don't Do It here
Re: Use Of Polyester Resin On Wood - Don't Do It [links]
Re: Use Of Polyester Resin On Wood - Don't Do It
The cost of epoxie resins around here is more the 50% more then poly resins.I used both.I would use epoxie over poly but not when it comes down to doing wood.Don't like the bluing,and having to wash in between coats.I find that I have been able to use poly resins in 35 drg weather,one thing I haven't tryed with epoxie.Thank God it doesn't get that cold here but once in a blue moon. here
Re: Use Of Polyester Resin On Wood - Don't Do It
Re: Use Of Polyester Resin On Wood - Don't Do It
most of the time the rot has been caused by someone drilling holes for brackets etc.. and not sealing them properly, and by some manufacturers being cheap or lazy (not sure which) and not sealing the bottom of the floor. [links]
Re: Use Of Polyester Resin On Wood - Don't Do It here
The best to glue polyester is epoxy.
You can glue polyester to polyester with epoxy
You can glue epoxy to polyester with epoxy
You can glue epoxy to epoxy with epoxy
I used Hysol 9462 (Aeropoxy) on many of my customer builds, great stuff but being epoxy based it tends to shrink more than some products, and this leaves a line on the fuselage over time where the former is fixed - even if the fit is really nice you will still see the line.
Recently I have started using Metharylates, they are wicked products (weird smell though!), they glue almost everything, shrink way less than epoxies and set to structural grade bonds, two products which you might find useful Devcon 530, a really fast 5-8 min set MA for jobs requiring fast fixes but are not key structural components, and Devcon 531 which is a 20-30 min handling cure which can be used on anything. more
Goop works awsome on poly glass, glue a peice of wood with goop on a scrap peice of poy glass and try to tear it out after it's cured ,no way
The other thing thats great about this stuff is that you can remove a glue joint with an exacto knife
I have also used Hysol with good results here
If we go back to the start of this part of the discussion, the resin you are most commonly going to be using will be derived from the first bulleted item. Orthophthalic resins are the most economical and widely used. It has a tendency to be more brittle than epoxy, but this depends heavily on the agents the resin is combined with. [links]
Within these two big buckets are a whole range of varying resins. All of them, like epoxy, are thermoset, meaning they require a catalyst in order to increase their temperature enough to cure.
So, you could use a myriad of household items or specific casting molds that are available from most every product channel one might purchase from to first form the resin into a base shape ready for turning. Or, you can create your own mold using MDF, Plywood or anything else that could be cut and sealed. This is a key point when creating your own molds we will explore in more detail later in the article.
Epoxy is an adhesive that is used for both hobby projects and much bigger applications, like boat hulls, flooring, aerospace, electronics, wastewater storage facilities and lots of other construction applications as well. Epoxy is almost assuredly present all around you as you read this, both in your computer or device and wherever you are sitting or standing. The key in each of these applications is how epoxy actually works. here