aq8586
28.04.2021 4:33:18
Linking your main engine to your auxiliary trolling motor, these connector kits let you troll using your regular steering wheel for control.
See full version: Auxiliary Motor Steering Kits
Linking your main engine to your auxiliary trolling motor, these connector kits let you troll using your regular steering wheel for control.
Designed for auxiliary engines up to 25HP, with a kit to fit every outboard and outdrive engine.
They also fit most outboard powered sailboats! more
• Patented self-adjusting rod, which attaches between your main and auxiliary engines
• Connector rod length automatically adjusts for trolling motor in either raised or lowered positions
• All brackets are powder-coated stainless steel; all connectors are brass; tie-rod is stainless steel
• Kit includes main bracket assembly, small outboard bracket assembly, self-adjusting tie-rod, and all necessary hardware
• Maximum auxiliary: 25 hp
Heavy on the technical side.
The E.Z. Steer system is a patented self-adjusting rod, which steers the auxiliary outboard motor from the main wheel.
The rod will self-adjust by using the built in turn stops on the engines.
When both engines are in the down running position and straight ahead, the rod will be at its shortest measurement.
With the auxiliary motor in the raised position, the rod will lengthen (extend) the first time the main unit is turned away.
Then, as the main unit turns back and forth, the auxiliary unit will follow the main unit.
When the auxiliary engine is lowered, the rod will shorten the first time the main unit is turned towards it.
Again, the auxiliary will follow the main unit back and forth here
The above will ensure that you have properly bled the system free and clear.
Note: At all times, be sure there is fluid in the filler tube, if it drains out you are pumping air in the system and you will need to start over [links]
When your wheel feels extra loose or requires extra effort, it’s time to add hydraulic fluid.
Owning a new boat ultimately brings the reality of performing both scheduled and nonscheduled maintenance. This doesn’t have to be onerous, though — have fun with these projects and make them an enjoyable part of your overall boating experience. One issue that you might encounter is a hydraulic boat steering problem. more
In this situation, you'll need to get some hydraulic-steering fluid that meets Mil-Spec H-5606C standards, such as Sea Star/Bay Star No. HA 5430; an adapter hose, like Sea Star No. HA 5438; and a pushpin from the bulletin board in your office. A rag also helps. Sea Star hydraulic steering fluid is prevalent in most boating centers across the United States.
TIP--puncture the bottle on the bottom side, not the very bottom, with the pushpin. Doing so enables you to place the pushpin back in and store a partially-full bottle on a shelf without leaks.
Factor 1: Horsepower
Ratings have increased over the years, so the horsepower of your new engine may be different than that of your old one. This is because the method for measuring horsepower has changed. Gary Coleman, national service manager for Mercury Marine Canada, based in Milton, Ont., points out that in outboards built before the late 1980s, horsepower was measured at the powerhead. These days, it’s measured at the prop shaft. The inherent loss of horsepower between the powerhead and the prop shaft means that, for example, a new 40 hp outboard is roughly equivalent to an older 50 hp model. Look for the vessel’s capacity plate/label, located somewhere on the hull. Exceeding the maximum horsepower rating will void any warranty on the boat and it may be difficult, if not impossible, to get insurance.
Factor 3: Shaft length
This should be the same on the new outboard as on the old one; however, not all outboards are produced in multiple shaft lengths, and this may limit your choice of brands. For optimal performance, an outboard’s horizontal cavitation plate (just above the prop) must be level with the bottom of the transom. Matt Maynard, of Hastings Marine in Norwood, Ont., explains that the cor- rect shaft length can be found by meas-uring the distance from the top of the transom (or outboard mounting plate) straight down to the very bottom of the transom—the deepest part. here
The first step in replacing an outboard is to assess the condition of the boat. “If you put on a new motor, you’re spending upwards of $10,000 to $15,000,” says Jennifer Picken, president of Walsten Marine in Kinmount, Ont., “so we want to make sure the boat is sound before we go any further.” Next, check out the existing engine, if the boat has one, for horsepower, weight, and shaft length.
Digital engine-monitoring gauges that mount on the console are now available for many 30-plus horsepower outboards, starting at $500. Their multifunction LED screens provide a mind-boggling array of valuable data. In addition to what normally appears on stand-alone analog gauges, such as oil pressure, rpm, and temperature, you’ll get everything from fuel consumption and engine diaries to engine diagnostics. Electronic controls, for engines of more than about 200 hp, allow for smoother shifting and less maintenance and are often easier to install than mechanical controls. [links]
Adjustable outboard motor bracket is designed for 2- and 4-stroke motors up to 15 HP or 132 lbs. Constructed of hard-coat anodized aluminum and hand adjustable with the turn of a knob.
Adjustable Stainless Steel outboard motor bracket. Works with 4-Stroke motors up to 15hp or 2-Stroke motors up to 20hp, max weight 132lbs. Twist-knob Safety Locks provide increased torque rating while helping secure bracket in place. Built extra-tough and extra-wide for secondary, higher-torque, four-stroke engines. Motor’s weight is counterbalanced by heavy-duty stainless steel torsion springs for easy lifting. The 55-0408SS boasts a 2″ thick, weatherproof and maintenance-free polypropylene mounting board along with aircraft-type stainless steel hardware. Four-position lock bar and 11″ of travel allow for a better range of trim adjustment letting you fine-tune motor height for optimal performance. Meets ABYC Standards. (Do not use without Panther 55-0415 safety cable—included.)
Rated for long or short shaft engines. here
Stainless steel torsion springs counterbalance the motor weight making adjustments a breeze. 10″ of travel and 5 vertical running positions let you fine tune the motor height for optimal performance. Meets ABYC Standards. (Do not use without Panther 55-0415 safety cable—included.)
Setback: 8 3/4″ in the up position and 14″ in the down position [links]