See full version: Winterizing EFI Stern Drive Engines
Most winterizing articles simply state “fog the engine’. This is true for carbureted engines but a different technique is used on fuel injected engines. To properly protect the internal engine components from rust and corrosion, you still need to run an oil-rich mixture through the engine; you just do it a little differently. This information was gleaned from a MerCruiser service bulletin. more
To fog or not to fog, that is the question: whether ‘tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune, or winterize against a sea of troubles.
Several weeks ago we published a article by our favorite boatyard owner, Paul Esterle, and received lots of mail complaining that Paul forgot to discuss winterizing EFI stern drive engines. All we can say is that being a boatyard owner is never a victimless crime. This week Paul gives us his take on winterizing and most of it comes right out of a MerCruiser service bulletin.
Step #3: Disconnect the fuel line from the tank and place it in the gas can with the oil/gas/stabilizer mix. [links]
Re: Fogging Fuel Injection. [links]
Do you have to do this. No, you don't have to do anything don't want to really. But your waaayyyyyyy less likely to have stuck fuel injectors and stuck electrical fuel pumps come spring time.
No matter the engine, it's probably a safe bet to fog the cylinders via the spark plug holes.
The Volvo bulletin basically says to hook up a six gallon (I do not see why it can't be a smaller tank, as long as mixture is correct) portable tank filled with stabilized 50:1 mix to the inlet on fuel pump and run engine for 10-15 minutes to draw the mix throughout the entire fuel system.
As far as i know fogging has nothing to do with the carbs or fuel inj.
It is to protect the cylinder walls from rust. So what your guy is saying is that rust will never form in an injected motor. I don't think so. here
Get a portable fuel tank, fill it with a gallon of gas, a couple of ounces of
TCW3 2 stroke outboard oil, and a couple of ounces of marine stabil. Hook this up before or after your fuel filter (doesn't really matter). Run the engine for 10 minutes or so on this mixture and then spray fogging oil down the throat of the throttle body just like every other engine.
When I did my own winterizing and when my marina did it we/they used to pour/spray fogging oil into the carbs/intakes until the engine stalled. A couple of years ago my marina became a 5 star eco certified tree hugging marina and was no longer allowed to fog the engines. I asked a couple of the techs at the time and they were not happy.They said it was too bad as fogging was the best way to go. One of the biggest marinas in the area said screw the 5 star eco cr*p last year and started fogging their engines again. Everyone I have talked with says fogging is the best way to spread the oil around. A little puff of smoke at start up and away you go. So now, I guess what I will do next year with my new 502s is to warm them up to operating temperature to put all of the acids and deposits into suspension in the hot oil, then I will use the oil extraction kit I built - a tech at the marina has borrowed it from me to use this fall, when I get it back I'll take a couple of pictures and post them here. - to remove the oil and filters while the oil is still HOT. Then I will install new oil filters and full synthetic oil (merc insists on it for the new 502s for warranty), run the engines for a few minutes then turn it over to the techs to do the drive lube etc. Since I found out that not all marinas heat the oil to operating temperature before changing it (who are these morons?) I either do it myself or stand there while the tech does it. I think I mentioned on another post that on the first oil change of my new 350 mags this year (on the Rinker 2013 EC 310 I had) the tech said - WOW! does the oil ever flow nice at operating temperature. I said - really? no kidding - you stupid bugger, don't you always heat it up to O.T.? He just looked at me. I said - honestly - if I ever find out someone here has changed cold oil on my engines I'll rip his nuts off. He laughed - and I said - oh buddy, don't laugh - I mean it. MT here
You gotta hope the valley, pushrods (that didn't get smogged through valve covers) and crankcase are protected by a good quality oil in the crankcase, that hopefully contains good amount of zinc.. more
THEN, while it's still warm, hitting it with fogging oil from a can, with coil wire removed and using the starter to turn it until the can is gone. a full can total, roughly 1/4 in each valve cover, and the rest past the blades of the throttle body. carb's are a different animal. carb's are pulled, drained, cleaned, and stored separately as dry (of fuel) as possible in a place they won't pick up contaminants or humidity- and the intake is fogged by turning the engine w/ the starter. [links]
You can use this stuff. It 'sposedly works pretty well.. pull oil fill cap, spray in one valve cover, pull pcv, spray in other. Pull iac, and map, cover, pull coil wire, spray into induction while turning engine with starter.. this will take care of valve springs, rockers, seats (keep a solid bead on them), intake manifold (displace h2o), bead it, valve faces, cylinder walls, and a few inches of exhaust manifolds.
The fuel systems, well, all I got for that is to treat it.. I reckon Mr. Diamonds rec of the merc recs are the way to go.. more
Question folks. This is my first year winterizing my boat. Is it necessary to fog my engine. ( Year 2009 - 5.7 350mag MPI - Bravo III). Am I to do anything else in place of fogging? Some one told me I should not be fogging a MPI engine.
Past owner of a 2003 342FV
PC BYC, Holland, MI
this only is where protection of hard parts is concerned, and not about fuel systems or tanks.
When I did my own winterizing and when my marina did it we/they used to pour/spray fogging oil into the carbs/intakes until the engine stalled. A couple of years ago my marina became a 5 star eco certified tree hugging marina and was no longer allowed to fog the engines. I asked a couple of the techs at the time and they were not happy.They said it was too bad as fogging was the best way to go. One of the biggest marinas in the area said screw the 5 star eco cr*p last year and started fogging their engines again. Everyone I have talked with says fogging is the best way to spread the oil around. A little puff of smoke at start up and away you go. So now, I guess what I will do next year with my new 502s is to warm them up to operating temperature to put all of the acids and deposits into suspension in the hot oil, then I will use the oil extraction kit I built - a tech at the marina has borrowed it from me to use this fall, when I get it back I'll take a couple of pictures and post them here. - to remove the oil and filters while the oil is still HOT. Then I will install new oil filters and full synthetic oil (merc insists on it for the new 502s for warranty), run the engines for a few minutes then turn it over to the techs to do the drive lube etc. Since I found out that not all marinas heat the oil to operating temperature before changing it (who are these morons?) I either do it myself or stand there while the tech does it. I think I mentioned on another post that on the first oil change of my new 350 mags this year (on the Rinker 2013 EC 310 I had) the tech said - WOW! does the oil ever flow nice at operating temperature. I said - really? no kidding - you stupid bugger, don't you always heat it up to O.T.? He just looked at me. I said - honestly - if I ever find out someone here has changed cold oil on my engines I'll rip his nuts off. He laughed - and I said - oh buddy, don't laugh - I mean it. MT [links]
Mebbe al will come along and straighten me out, but this is how I've done it and seen it done. To add this, though, I've seen folks put gear lube in cylinders, which I think is nuts and begging for full lock. here