See full version: Running gas out of carbs for winter and / or long term storage
Some have recommended not doing this on multiple carburetor systems because one of the carburetors will go empty before the others and this will strain those cylinder(s) that are run out first, not to mention totally damaging them.
I am used to running the carburetors out of gas before storage to minimize them getting gummed up, or if they do they get gummy, they would do so with the float and needle down, in the open position. I do this by disconnecting the fuel line at the motor.
What's up with this? Why the strong words not to run out the carbs? Is this damage something that happens on newer models made of cheap materials or any other cost limiting design factors?
Got some feedback on this that surprises me. I would appreciate more detail.
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Correspondingly, will an outboard motor freeze? more
When the air temperature is below freezing, always keep the motor in its down position when it's not running. Water in the submerged portion of the motor will not freeze. If you pull your boat ashore, try to lift the stern with the motor lowered to drain as much water as possible from the outboard. more
What happens if you don't winterize your outboard motor? here
One may also ask, do 2 stroke outboard motors need to be winterized? Winterizing a 2-Stroke Outboard Motor Regardless of the season, you should winterize your outboard anytime it isn't going to be used for more than a month. You don't have to wait for snowflakes to fall to winterize an outboard. [links]
Precious fluids & lubes
The time to change lube oil and the filter on an inboard engine is when it’s still warm from winterizing. Besides, that old oil is full of corrosive by-products that have no place sitting in your oil pan over the winter.
The same water that makes boating fun in the summer becomes your boat’s anathema in winter. Water is the only common liquid that expands as it freezes. And, it creates rust when wet iron is exposed to oxygen in the atmosphere. “Winterizing” is a collective term for the necessary steps to prevent expensive freezing and rusting damage to your boat’s engine during the dark of winter.
Outboard engines stored upright are designed to drain themselves dry. You can help the process by turning the engine over by hand a couple of times. However, do not run your outboard on dry land just to “make sure.” The flexible vanes of the impeller in the water pump need water as a lubricant. Running an engine dry usually ruins the vanes. (This is true of outdrives and many inboards which also use flexible vane pumps.) [links]
Small “kicker” outboards are particularly susceptible to bad gasoline. Stabilize that fuel and run that mixture into the engine as above. Instead of overwintering any remaining fuel, use it for another purpose. Start next season with fresh gas.
Today, most experts recommend a “wet” layup. Special non-toxic antifreeze is pumped through a running engine until everything reaches normal operating temperature. Then, a boat technician uses a special tool to measure the level of protection. The only problem with a wet layup: You really can’t do it yourself because special equipment is needed. [links]
Now is also the time to check the fluid level in the inboard gearbox. Some inboards use ordinary engine oil, but many require a specific transmission fluid. Replace the fluid if it’s unusually dark or has bad odor.