StinkiePhish
05.05.2021 18:47:57
My car has 120000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
See full version: Q: When I go to crank my car the key stays in the start position and the car is constantly trying to crank itself
My car has 120000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
When I place the key in the ignition and proceed to crank the car the key stays in the start position and the car is constantly trying to start itself up but never actually turns over. I then have to manually turn the key back so the car can stop trying to start up. I have had the fuel pump replaced and the crank position sensor. The car worked like normal for one entire day and then the same problem reoccurred. Though I don't think this is the problem but each time the car wouldn't start it was parked on a semi incline in our driveway. But we have parked it her numerous of times before. I am having a mechanic check the fuse boxes today for maybe a relay problem.
First, let’s make sure about some terminology before I proceed. I will assume the motor is actually turning over. If the car is trying to start, the motor has to be turning over or it is not trying to start. This is an important distinction when diagnosing the starting system. As a technician, I go to different parts of the system based on this description.
My car has 60000 miles.
My car has an automatic transmission.
The ignition switch is going to be the most common failure for the ignition loosing contact in the run position of the switch. If you can hold the ignition in a position toward start position and can keep it running without the starter engaging then the problem is inside the ignition switch. Replace the ignition switch on the steering column and retest. If you need assistance, a certified YourMechanic technician can be dispatched to your location to help inspect your difficulties starting your vehicle, or replace the ignition switch for you.
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How am I doing as the teacher? here
Many times it is obvious little stuff that messes you up. When I get in binds like that I will go through the motions, this does this, makes this do this, etc, and follow along with the flow of things with my finger.
Volts while cranking means the "I" terminal is working on the solenoid. This is good!
Check your fuses/ follow the wire from the positive side of the coil towards the firewall, look for breaks or shorts. more
Keep us in mind for the future, if you need me, request CJ MEDEVAC! [links]
The big red wire is "battery" or the feed for the ignition switch. Hot all of the time.
So if I bought a coil for a 1978 351w would that be an issue with a resistor? here
The volt gauge is not wired in yet. The dash is sitting in the tub waiting to go on. My lights work. here
This will verify that the switch is good.
I have a new coil.
Tried a new starter solenoid.
Tried a new ignition switch.
Tried a working ICU.
I made you a diagram. Took a little time, but I got it! Found the other on the net. [links]