[carolinetimms2]

Disconnect the canister vent line to the gas tank, and try blowing through it. This is a short line, so it should be obvious if there is a blockage. If it seems it might be clogged, use compressed air to thoroughly blow out the line. A can of compressed air, like the air cans used to blow around computer keyboards, will often do the trick -- if a long piece of plastic tubing can be engineered instead of the short stick-hose they typically have. Blowing through the line will verify whether there is a blockage and often will unblock the line. more

[maryhmckee]

Extend a compressor line into the air vent line, and give it a shot of air. If the line is not blocked, there will be a gurgling sound as air is forced into the tank. Lack of such a sound may indicate a blockage, and a further check is required.

[altamic]

The remaining problem possibilities are valve-related and cannot be cleared by hand. Replace the canister assembly, the canister close valve and vent valve. This is typically done by an auto mechanic or car-handy friend. [links]

[Mionione]

Drain the tank, and allow the interior to dry out. Reconnect the fuel line and the vent hose, and retry the compressed air blow. There should be no blockage at this point. Attempt to refill the tank see if the problem has gone away. [links]

[jtimon]

Of course, it’s not just Experimentals and 1947 DC-6s that have fuel venting problems. A problem can happen in any airplane whenever a fuel vent is bent, inadvertently misdirected or mounted wrong, or gets clogged. There is more than once accident like this: [links]

[BlueSky]

Check your fuel vent system after an annual.

[TarotUnlimited]

Don’t mess with your fuel vents.

[vfdsaq]

When I inspected the fuel tank at my next stop, it had collapsed and was kind of wrinkled, something that must have happened when I burned off some of the fuel. I suppose that is when I started thinking about fuel vents. If there had been a vent, the tank wouldn’t have expanded and collapsed—so obvious. I flew the airplane for another year with a wrinkled tank, and it didn’t seem worse for the wear, but after that I was very careful when transferring fuel.

[Bimmerhead]

He says, “It’s quite exciting when doing touch-and-goes, which turned into touch-and-go—when the engine quits, landing with a dead-stick prop. The vent line was redirected down the gear leg, and the problem was resolved.” He goes on to say another such venting issue occurred where the Cassutt wouldn’t run at anything above quarter power in flight. The culprit was the vent line broke at the front of the fuel tank, venting the tank to the inside of the airplane, which is also in a low-pressure area, interrupting the gravity feed of the fuel. [links]

[fawkes]

If the vents become blocked in flight, let’s say at the point when the tank contains 50 percent fuel and 50 percent air, fuel will continue to be sucked out but the existing air must expand to fill an ever-greater volume. This causes a drop in pressure—or if, you prefer, a partial vacuum compared to outside pressure. Either way, eventually the fuel will stop flowing or the tank will collapse in on itself, implode. more

[hjordanfishere]

Check your fuel vent system after an annual.

[knightmb]

When I inspected the fuel tank at my next stop, it had collapsed and was kind of wrinkled, something that must have happened when I burned off some of the fuel. I suppose that is when I started thinking about fuel vents. If there had been a vent, the tank wouldn’t have expanded and collapsed—so obvious. I flew the airplane for another year with a wrinkled tank, and it didn’t seem worse for the wear, but after that I was very careful when transferring fuel.

[stracer01]

You can learn a lot about aerodynamics and fuel systems from Experimental-certified aircraft. We owe a lot to pioneers like the Wright Brothers and Glenn Curtiss, WWII airplane manufacturers, homebuilders, test pilots and, of course, aerobatic pilots. here

[calmsupplements]

Of course, it’s not just Experimentals and 1947 DC-6s that have fuel venting problems. A problem can happen in any airplane whenever a fuel vent is bent, inadvertently misdirected or mounted wrong, or gets clogged. There is more than once accident like this: [links]

[sahars]

The National Transportation Safety Board determines the probable cause(s) of this accident as follows: The pilot’s reconfiguration of the fuel venting system, which resulted in a loss of engine power and subsequent loss of aircraft control. [links]

[claw]

As we were flying north, I noticed the normally rock-solid fuel gauge on the right engine was fluctuating. The Baron’s fuel system had a cross-feed feature, and I played with it while trying to figure out what was going on, but it kept fluctuating, so I landed and spoke to a mechanic. After uncowling the engine, he discovered a broken fuel line. So that’s why. The engines were low time and the hoses were fresh, so we couldn’t imagine why this had happened, but “these things happen,” so we went to lunch while he fixed it, then took off again toward the north. more

[noxion]

Change the spark plugs. don't strip the threads, just crush the washers.

[Solego]

Not in California. Checked the vin , not a CA bike.

[kashiffarooq2003]

Not in California. Checked the vin , not a CA bike.

[bitcoinuser]

Before I tear apart things again any thoughts? here

[Jameson]

Took off the reed valve/insulator and cleaned it and it seems to work. It appears differently then the one in the service manual. As an aside. when I first took off my carb there was a small piece of debris keeping the reed valve open and I removed that and really thought that was the problem but that didn't pan out.

[anon8373]

So my suspicion is that it is not getting enough gas from either the faulty needle valve, junk in my idle port or around the hi low needles. Less likely the fuel check valve causing problems more

[noles]

Rebuilt the carb with all new parts except the needle valve sent me in the kit was too long so had to reuse the old one. The needle does seem to move fine up and down with no sticking. I didn't soak the carb but sprayed all with carb cleaner and then air. I did not remove the welch plug and clean the idle port so wondering if that is a problem. I did not take off those little red things on the hi low needles and did not remove the needles. [links]

[Cusipzzz]

I still can't get my echo to idle. It starts right up on the second pull and as long as I am actively reving the engine it runs but let go and it dies. I can rev it for a minute+ so it is warm but just dies. If I just hold the throttle down say at 3/4 open it also dies. I have to be constantly pulling the finger throttle lever on an off to keep it going. Here are the things I have done.