See full version: Upper shift shaft seal in the bell housing question
Both seals should face down. There will be water in the exhaust chamber below, and it should be dry above where the shift shaft lever is. You are right, as I understand it the garter spring should face the liquid that you are trying to keep out. Better check with a Merc dealer.
Re: Upper shift shaft seal in the bell housing question
Hmmm. not clear to me yet, but I am still learning these drives. I would hope the service manual would show it clearly. My look at the exploded parts diagram for the genII (gear housing-drive shaft) shows one bushing and one seal. Hope I am looking at the right diagram! My mental model tells me the seal is positioned to keep the oil in the drive. isn't this what gets pressure tested? Interested to hear what the grey-beards say!
Replacing the Alpha One or R water pocket cover sucks BIG TIME because sometimes the bolts snap off
in the upper housing. If they snap off. you will need a new upper housing. more
What to Expect
Drive work is difficult and messy. The outdrive is heavy so
if your not in shape then have a mechanic take care of it.
Take some Special Lube 101 and grease the inside of the water pump housing cup.
As you lower the water pump housing in place, turn the driveshaft clockwise. here
Missing one item could lead to drive and/or engine failure. Don't screw up!
Squirt a little grease into the hole in the end of the shift cable bellows to lube the rubber.
Force the end of the cable through the shift cable bellows, through the gimbal and into the engine compartment.
IMPORTANT: While pushing the length of the cable into the bilge it has to be deflected off to the stb side of the engine.
Take care not to allow the end of the cable to get improperly routed into the flywheel housing/coupler area.
It is best to have an assistant up in the engine compartment to insure proper routing of the cable during installation.
They can use a long stick to push the entering cable towards the stb side just as it enters the gimbal. here
If the drive does not pull off easily it might be stuck.
Lift the tail end of the drive a few inches and let it drop freely.
This "jarring" will usually break the drive free from the bellhousing.
The process might have to be repeated or exagerated a few times until the unit breaks free.
Your new Alpha Gen II Ujoint Bellows came with a new retainer sleeve so just use a screwdriver
to pry out the old retainer sleeve. It will be ruined so discard the old sleeve.
If you had elected to install an Exhaust Tube instead of the Exhaust Bellow you
do not have any other work to do for the exhaust.
If you had elected to install the Exhaust Bellow, you will need to use the
Exhaust Bellows Expansion Tool.
You can NOT install new exhaust bellows without the Expansion Tool.
The tool needs to be inserted in through the exhaust passage to grab and expand the inside of the exhaust bellows.
For the tool to pass through the exhaust passage you will have to remove the shift shaft.
The shift shaft passes down through the exhaust passage and it's in the way of the tool.
Uncrew and remove the slotted set-screw in the shift lever.
Lift off the lever and drop the shift shaft out the bottom of the bellhousing. [links]
Center the drive and tilt up the bellhousing as to access the water hose.
Install the clamp in the correct position and force the hose onto the brass hose barb in the bellhousing.
The clamp screw will be facing down on the outboard port side.
Easier said than done! Yes. It's a tight fit and it's difficult to do.
Take you time and you will eventually get it on the barb.
The hose clamp must be in the exact correct position otherwise you won't be able
to get the socket on it to tighten it up. [links]
After you are POSITIVE that the shafts are correct. then a good kick can help.
I like to "bump" the drive on gently with a soft log.
Theoretically, if the splines are in good condition, and the engine is aligned, and the shafts are aligned, and the splined shaft is in good condition.
then the drive will slide on easy. NOT always the case.
IF you attempt to install the new cable without this tool OR if the tool is not milled correctly, then you will destroy your new shift cable during installation
AND you might destroy your $300.00 bellhousing as well.
Mercruiser does NOT sell this tool.
Shift into reverse and feel the ratchet tension. Also make sure you get a good "lock" in the other direction.
IF the reverse is weak in the ratcheting, then adjust the stud in the lever slide on the shift plate.
Cool! Everything is in pieces! more
Before the drive is installed, think. is it time for a new water pump?
Is the drive ready to be resealed? [links]
Now that the drive is off and out of the way, you can inspect the bellhousing area.
Was there water in the U-joint bellows?
Is the u-joint assembly rusted?