[weed]

My boat lift will not go down. How do I get my boat lift to lower?
Verify that there are no obstructions keeping the boat lift from submerging. Also, check to make sure the hose is not kinked and trapping the air in the hose. Lastly, if this is the first time you are using it after a long period of time, the unit may be air-locked. For manual controls, place your valve handle(s) in the lift/launch position and turn on your blower to purge the hose and tanks. For push-button controls, press the raise button. You may also need to raise the hose up out of the water to get any water that may be trapped not allowing the air to release (it’s good to cycle the lift a couple of times if this is the case to get the hose cleared).

[edgeleyx]

Where can I purchase replacement parts for my boat lift?
You can purchase replacement parts through your HydroHoist Dealer or on TotalMarina.com! [links]

[Vorlon]

What size boat lift do I have? How can I tell what size the boat lift is?
We can help you determine what size of lift you have, but we will need to know the diameter or width/height and length of your tanks and how many tanks you have (you can also email us a photo).

[Symbiosis]

1.) Sucking air and oil at the same time. (Foamy oil causing Cavitation)
2.) Power unit mounting bolts (to the post) are loose.
3.) Worn motor coupling. Located between the motor and pump.
4.) Plugged oil filter screen.

[ender_x]

WARNING: Leave all work to trained and licensed electricians. Attempting repairs yourself is extremely dangerous, with the potential for serious injury and even death. Greg Smith Equipment assumes no responsibility or liability for individuals doing the work as shown.

[Limb]

1.) Clean or replace oil filter screen.
2.) Replace or tighten oil suction tube.
3.) Clean or replace lowering valve.
4.) Fill tank with hydraulic oil. Refer to owner’s manual.
5.) Replace oil pump. here

[Saul]

1.) Repair external leaks.
2.) Clean or replace lowering valve.
3.) Clean or replace check valve. [links]

[Ewald]

1.) Repair external leaks.
2.) Clean or replace lowering valve.
3.) Clean or replace check valve.

[yurumtin]

1.) Replace the start capacitor.
2.) Replace the AC contactor. here

[britschler]

My neighbor has a small boat that I was hoping we could use the pressure side of the hose from.
Several years ago, when the water level was extremely low, I jumped in with a shovel and a hoe. The shovel was useless, because the mud would stick to it like glue. I did make some progress pulling the mud, toward the seawall, with a hoe.
It doesn't take long before your feet sink into the mud, it is kind of like quick sand.
My wife freaked out. She thought I would get eaten by the alligators.
Most days I can get the boat on and off if I plan it in advance and take the boat off at the right time of day.
If I remove enough mud to lower the lift six inches more it would really help.
I'll check at the rental places to see if they have pumps that put out somewhere near 150 psi.
Tom

[nacarino]

If you have a boat with a shallow enough draft, back it in and fasten it securely to the lift/dock. Put the motor in fwd gear and throttle up a bit. You'd be amazed how much mud you can move. [links]

[bitdragon]

Only try this if there is enough clearance and you can tie the stern on to something very strong. Also be midfull of the amount of silt being turned up and drawn into your impeller. [links]

[tunixman]

We have used the neighborhood fire pump to blast the silt out before. A local rental company has a pump with 4x the power that I may try.

[virgo20]

One thing to try that won't hurt most cylinders is to rotate the rod say 180 degrees. carefully of course, in the presence of lube.

here

[E-conomictest]

In Bailey's catalog they give the max allowable load for each length of cylinder. Short ones can stand the full rated pressure but longer ones have decreasing max load capability due to the limitation of column strength of the rod. For the same rod/bore/length combination, these limits would apply equally to a $100 cylinder or a $1000 one. more

[vics5thor]

The piston seal you describe is actually more of a high end method of sealing rather than low end for hydraulic cylinders. U-cup type seals are the typical low end design, and there's more than a few problems with using u-cups in double acting cylinders. If you disassemble a cylinder from Caterpillar or any other manufacturer of earthmoving equipment, you'll find they're all using piston seals rather than u-cups.

[ReganLahne2102]

I think as long as the cylinder is in good condition, it should be OK to use air. as long as the seal and bore, etc is lubricated with some trace oil, and the piston is not sent at high speed into a crash condition with the opposite cap.

here