Re: Boat hard to turn left but easy turning right?
See full version: Boat hard to turn left but easy turning right
Re: Boat hard to turn left but easy turning right?
Re: Boat hard to turn left but easy turning right? [links]
Re: Boat hard to turn left but easy turning right? here
Did you ever figure this out. I have same symptoms and have adjusted the tab over prop and no help. Someone told me steering wheel but it has no bearings or gears so I cannot imagine that being it.
Re: Boat hard to turn left but easy turning right?
My guess would be prop torque then. My boat turns easier to the right than left also. It's not allot of difference but it is noticeable and it will definitely turn sharper to the right than left.
There is one more thing you might look at. That is the round or hexagon-shaped cover on the gear box right where the steering shaft goes into it. If someone recently tried to replace that seal or did some other repair, and left that cover less than fully-tightened, it will allow the control valve lever to move back and forth when the steering wheel is turned, but it will not open that valve one of the two ways. This is something that is not going to happen on its own unless that lever cracked, or unless someone had it apart recently. The way to identify that is to watch that stub shaft and/or steering coupler while a helper turns the steering wheel back and forth. Do that with the engine running, and only move the steering wheel about 1/8th turn back and forth, about twice per second. If something is wrong there, you will see the stub shaft and coupler move away from and closer to the gear box. That in-and-out movement should be small enough to not be perceptible. There are three things on the four-wheel-drive models of these trucks that can cause objectionable steering wander at highway speeds. In-and-out movement of that shaft is by far very uncommon, but it is one of those three things to look for.
The pump is the only place where heat is generated in the power steering fluid, so if that fluid was dark, it is in the pump where that occurred. There are sliding vanes in it that can wear down and result in reduced fluid pressure, and there is a valve in the outlet port that reduces fluid pressure when you are not turning, but again, both of those are not related to the direction you are turning. The only thing I can think of is if some debris broke off one of the vanes, (they are just a fiber material), it might have circulated through the system and lodged in the steering gear box. The power piston has steel sealing rings on it and those are not going to be damaged by debris. What I suppose could happen is a port became blocked and will not let pressurized fluid through to do its thing, but in doing steering, suspension, and alignment repairs for over thirty years, I have never solved this symptom by replacing a gear box. This is a real common problem with rack and pinion steering gears, especially on older GM front-wheel-drive cars, but while it can happen on any brand, I have never seen it with the "recirculating ball: gear box design that you have. here
An internal problem with the gearbox is very rare, but equally uncommon is a problem with the steering damper. That looks like a shock absorber connected to the axle housing on one end, and the steering linkage on the other end. It is supposed to pull apart and push together equally hard either way, and it does need some force to do that. If you see its housing is dented or the shaft is bent, that can also cause hard steering one way unrelated to the gearbox or power steering system. If it is stained with oil that has leaked out, it likely has come apart inside and is binding. As a test, you can disconnect one end of it, then see if the steering is back to normal. If you drive the truck that way, be sure the damper is tied up so it does not hit the ground or interfere with the steering linkage. Do not hit highway speeds either. Trucks tend to develop what we refer to as the "death wobble". That is when the steering wheel shakes violently back and forth at higher speeds. You will never forget the first time you experience that! That is what the damper is there to prevent. [links]
Also, the left and right-turn ports in the gear box are shared. When turning right, fluid goes in one port, then out the other one. Their roles are reversed when turning the other way. That means turning one way should blow out any blockage and send it back up the pump's reservoir. more
Very doubtful. You must remember the symptom only affects turning one way, so we have to consider only things that both directions do not have in common. If low pump pressure, contaminated fluid, or even a loose drive belt were the cause, it would affect turning both ways.
You might get more ideas from this article:
This is a Troy-bilt Garden Tractor Model B809H. 46" deck.
At the bottom end of the shaft the steering wheel is mounted on, there is a nut that holds a gear onto the end of the shaft. If this nut is not really tight, turning left will tend to loosen the nut, turning right will tend to tighten the nut. It is possible that when you hit the rock, the shock loosened the nut just enough to cause this problem. here
You will have to look up from underneath the front of the machine and put a wrench on the nut that holds the gear on the shaft. You can identify the correct nut by having someone turn the steering wheel while you are looking up. [links]
I was mowing and picking up leaves, and for a bit I noticed that when I turned left it clicked a bit. Then I slowly lost the ability to have my wheels turn left. It's like it won't engage somewhere. The steering wheel just spins and doesn't connect with anything when I turn it left. When I turn it right, all seems fine. If I get off the tractor and manually turn my wheels left, I am able to turn them, but I cannot turn them with the steering wheel.
I want to add that I did hit an approx 5" landscaping rock that had rolled out a bit and was under the leaves, so I'm wondering if I broke off a bolt or something. I know nothing about these machines. Please help me know where to even begin, an approximate cost of repair, and is this a do-it-yourself type of job, or will I need to get it repaired in a shop? more
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