kat
20.04.2021 4:00:37
The fittings you are referring to are probably hydraulic air bleed fittings, not grease fittings. Just keep the rod clean (i.e. wipe down with a cloth wetted with WD40).
See full version: How do I lube my hydraulic steering? 115 O/B
The fittings you are referring to are probably hydraulic air bleed fittings, not grease fittings. Just keep the rod clean (i.e. wipe down with a cloth wetted with WD40).
Re: How do I lube my hydraulic steering? 115 O/B
Boilermaker, just getting back to you. I checked out the steering tonight. There is only one line that runs to the motor and connects with roughly a 1" nut to the steering cylinder that pushes out the metal slide bar that then through a pivot point, connects to the armature that through another pivot point, connects to the engine.<br /><br />I looked at the helm again, it is a casting of what looks to be aluminum and there is a tube seperate from that that runs to the motor. This tube is clear and looks to contain fluid, but is not completely filled. At the end of this tube it is pinched off, sealed. I think this is an expansion chamber/tube?<br /><br />I, don't know what to think. Just want to have smooth steering and I think I will have to disconnect the tube from where it mounts at the engine and clean out all of it in the cylinder there?<br /><br />Any replies would begreat fo radvise.<br /><br />-Craig here
I'm trying to save money this year by winterizing my boat myself. I live in Massachusetts so the boat will be stored (covered) outside for 5-6 months.
My biggest question is what do I need to do to the engine. From what I read I should run the stabilized fuel through the engine for 5 or 10 minutes and then fog the engine and grease all the fittings and store the engine in the vertical (down) position.
The marina that I usually take it to for winterizing told me they just hook it up to special treated gas instead of fogging the engine. I can't really do that so I'm at a loss on what to do. here
Maintenance Matters - How To Winterize Your Evinrude Outboard more
For those of us who do not live in the Southern climates during the winter months, now is the time to prepare your Evinrude outboard for its long winter nap. The most familiar cause of storage-related breakdown is water that is left in the engine block which in turn freezes. Ice will form, expand and then crack the cylinder block. This can lead to very costly repairs. Before storing your outboard for the winter we recommend performing the following simple steps.
Outboards:
Run the fuel treatment through the engine for about 10-15 minutes then switch to the storage mix tank for another few minutes. The air silencer then is removed to spray a good dose of Engine Tuner through the carburetors or fuel injection air tubes. The engine tuner washes carbon deposits from the cylinder heads, piston rings, piston tops and spark plugs. Once the engine tuner is sprayed in the appropriate places turn off the engine and let it sit for about a half hour. If this is the first time doing this, let the engine sit for a couple of hours to let the fluid work on the carbon deposits that may be baked-on. After this, start up the engine and spray in any unused tuner into the same places. Now, you are ready to use the fogging oil. Spray the fogging oil into the same orifices as the engine tuner. This oil coats the inside with a **** that protects the metal surfaces and bearings from rust and condensation. The fluid may choke the engine or produce smoke but that is normal. You might need to rev the engine some to keep it running while you spray the fogging oil into the cylinders but do not over rev the engine past 1500 rpms. After you spray the fogging oil, turn off the engine and do not run it out of fuel especially if it is an oil-injected engine. Next, remove the all the spark plugs and insert a teaspoon of outboard oil into each cylinder. Then rotate the flywheel to distribute the oil in the cylinders after removing the kill switch to prevent the engine from starting. Then check the Tilt Fluid and top off if needed. Now, tilt the engine down and drain the Gearcase Lubricant. Fill the unit with fresh lubricant and replace the fill/vent plug gaskets if necessary. Make sure to Grease the fittings on the engine which we recommend the swivel bracket, steering tube, tilt mechanism and cowling latches. Spray the powerhead and any wiring with Silicone Lubricant. Also make sure you touch up any missing or chipped paint areas. Replace zinc anodes that are eroded. Make sure you cover the propeller exhaust outlets with a plastic bag to prevent pests and water from entering. Remove the battery and store in a cool place.
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Smaller Horsepower Outboard (2.5 & 3.5 hp )
For smaller outboards, the simplest way to flush your outboard is by using a large bucket of water. Be sure the bucket is large enough to completely cover the water intake ports on the lower unit of the outboard. Also be sure that the bucket is wide enough so that no part of the motor will touch the sides/bottom of the bucket. Securely mount your outboard on a sawhorse or some other type of apparatus that will allow safe operation of your outboard.
As the fuel begins to run out and the motor starts to "die", choke the engine a little until the RPM's pick back up. Continue choking the engine as the engine starts to die out until the fuel supply is finally exhausted.
- or - more
When you have completed the fresh water flush in Step 1, disconnect the fuel line at the motor and continue running the motor until it runs out of gas. It is extremely important to ensure that all of the fuel has been drained from the carburetor otherwise any fuel/oil mixture remaining will evaporate and leave deposits (also called varnish, gum, etc). in the carburetor.