neolith2099
22.05.2021 17:04:46
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You can get webbing solution for gel coat, it should work about the same in paint, but first check with an automotive paint store, they should have it.
Texfish, Years ago General Motors used a "Spackle Paint" (it could be bought aftermarket, in a spray can) to give a splatter finish (multicolored) to their trunk interiors. I have seen a few boats with a similar finish on the inside of the hull, on rough fiberglass. here
At one time there were spray cans with webbing solution and paint in it, I used some and it worked well, the colors faded over time, but it was still webbed and looked good. I was looking for this product again recently and I was not able to find it anywhere. The trunk product is not for outdoor use, at least that's what it says on the can, there are clears designed to be used over some of these types of finishes so they will hold up to the weather, but they may not hold up to traffic, like on a deck. [links]
You have a choice of non-skid additives, or paints that already contain nonskid compound. Then there’s the choice of roller, brush, or roller and brush. But among all the situations you might face and choices you’ll need to make, there are some deck-painting truths that, to paraphrase Mr. Jefferson, we hold to be universal:
A trim sander with a triangular footprint will let you get closer to mounted hardware than hand-sanding. here
7. Let the sander and sandpaper do the work. Don’t bear down on the sander, just guide it with light, even pressure. And don’t try too hard to conserve your sandpaper. Nothing cuts and removes material better than a new piece of sandpaper, even the old-fashioned aluminum oxide kind. When your sandpaper loads up or starts to lose its cutting power, just change it. Sandpaper is cheap and time is money. [links]
10. Never use paint straight from the original can. Use a smaller temporary container and pour out only enough paint to keep you busy before it starts to dry out. Keep stirring what you poured out, and keep the lid on your main paint can tight. more
Now it’s time to fill any dings and gouges in your topsides with the recommended filling and fairing compound. For small repairs both above and below the waterline, most pros recommend a two-part epoxy filler. Let the repairs dry, then sand the whole surface smooth. If your topsides are in poor condition you might want to use an aggressive 100-grit sandpaper, then sand again with 150-grit. Vacuum up the dust, flog the topsides with towels, vacuum again, then wipe everything down with solvent on rags or a tack cloth to pick up any remaining dust. [links]
9. On topsides and deck projects, it’s important not to spread paint over such a large area that your first strokes begin to set before you can get back to them. This makes it impossible to get a wet overlap and in the end, a smooth, uniform look to the project. This is especially true in warm weather and under direct sunlight. If it’s hard to see the edges of the area you’re working on, mark the boundaries with moveable references. Anything can work—putty knives, tape measures, pens, whatever is handy—as long as you know where the overlap area is. more
While it’s often possible to substitute brands of paint thinner or mineral spirits, if you’re not sure, be on the safe side and use the product recommended by the paint maker. The same goes for primers. here
10. If you have any stripes, now it’s the time to tape them. Apply two top coats for your stripes. [links]
3. Now it is time to take care of the scratches. Thankfully, we didn’t have any penetrating holes, but some of the gouges were rather deep. You can use pretty much any epoxy, but we used Fiberglass Evercoat and Pettit EZ Tex Marine Epoxy Repair Compound. Both are very easy to apply and sand. This is how the boat looked before sanding: more
7. Get your primer ingredients. You can purchase them in West Marine or online. During the time of the job, West Marine matched the cheapest price you could find. I don’t know if they are doing it now, but don’t hesitate to check into it! Please do remember to read the detailed directions in the application guide, but in short, you will need: Awlgrip 545 Primer (D8001), Primer Converter (D3001) and Reducer (T0006). Do not buy too much reducer – it is the same for both primer and finish coats and you do not use too much at a time. We bought 1 gallon and it was more than enough. here
All in all, instead of $10k, we spent $1200. What we learned is
A Little Disclaimer: By any means, we are not claiming to be professionals and give professional consultation about how to paint your boat with Awlgrip. But we are going to tell our story, and hope it helps somebody through the process.
5. Guess what you need to do now? Correct – sand. Use a smaller grit (larger number) – 150 or 240. here