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Is your suspension (springs/shocks) worn and causing the back end of the RV to ride too low?
Some RV’s have adjustable ride heights, so if the ride height is out of specifications then an adjustment may solve some of the problems.
HOWEVER, I had not driven it, until I moved in (just bought the truck camper) and when I entered it, my camper BARELY cleared, but vent did not! The truck camper roof when on ground & level is approximately 93-94″, vents another 3-4″. So, 98″ max, and 8’2″ equals 98″. However it hits well under 98″ because I had to let half my air out of my ties and airbags to bottom, in order to get even my roof to clear! On horizontal it is fine, so it must be the incline and forcing the camper to nose-up. here
You may encounter extreme grades while travelling in mountainous areas and be faced with this challenge, often without the option of turning around. However, skilful speed management and a cool hand can triumph. here
Engine or Transmission Overheat: Climbing steep grades takes horse power and torque, this causes the drivetrain to heat up. To keep your engine and tranny running cooler, climb grades in a manually selected gear. This then will allow partial throttle climbs without the automatic up-shift. Operating your engine at higher RPM will allow the cooling package to run more efficiently during hard pulls.
Reduced Visibility Possible: Quite often the clouds are lower than the mountains are high. If the roadway rises up to, and through, the cloud base, vision may be reduced to near zero. Slow down and observe caution as you would driving in fog.
Last week I experienced some extreme grade driving while travelling through the Gaspe Penninsula in Quebec Canada. An extreme steep grade out of Perce took my speed from a start of 30 MPH down to 9 MPH. My coach and tow weighed in at about 52,000 lbs. with a 500 HP Cummins engine. This already gave me slightly less than the 1 HP per 100 lbs. (A standard considered necessary) That was further reduced when the fan drive clutch locked up drawing a whopping 70 HP. leaving me with 430 flywheel HP. I maintained about 9 MPH for most of the climb and gradually picked up speed as I approached the crest and the grade. Descents on these grades were equally challenging. With the Jake Brake in “Hi” I reduced my speed to engage 2nd gear at the outset. Fortunately, the fan drag that worked against me on the up hill climb also automatically engages in the “Hi” mode adding an additional 70 HP braking resistance. Needless to say, the fuel milage crashed to something less than 5 MPG throughout this day. Looking back, I think the up hill climbs were more stressful than the downhill. I hardly needed to engage the service brakes during the descentss at any time.
Affects of High Altitude: Generally there is little affect to most people when exposed to 5,000 feet or so. But there are far higher elevations in the U.S. that you can drive to, about 12,000 feet or more. If you are planning a trip that may take you to these extreme elevations, it would be wise to look into altitude health affects for yourself and those travelling with you. If you plan to camp in the mountains you should be aware of the reduced output that your generator can supply. For each 1,000 feet of elevation above sea level, a 3.5% drop in output will be experienced. So, for example, if you have a 7,000 watt unit, you will only have about 5,500 watts at 6,000 feet or 4,500 watts at 10,000.
First, it sounds like you are not towing with your trailer level so you do not hit your ball mount on the driveway. A trailer that is not level can create many problems such as ground clearance and trailer sway. If you have any sway control issues with your trailer, then I would recommend moving your leaf springs above your axle using an over-under kit or by welding new spring seats to the top of your axle so you can tow your trailer level. I know you said you do not need to raise your trailer that much, but towing a trailer level will provide better ride quality and clearance. more
asked by: Bill
There are a couple different ways to raise the ride height of your trailer, but before we choose the best option for you, we will want to take a look at a few things.
We carry over-under kits for 3 inch diameter axles, # K71-385-00, or for 2-3/8 inch diameter axles, # K71-384-00. These two kits do not require welding to install but the manufacturer strongly suggests having the new spring seats tack welded to the axle.