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A little confused about the alignment process in relation to how tight the rear motor mount bolts should be. I know the service manual says 45 lb ft but do you torque them down right at that from the start before adjusting the front motor mounts during alignment? If not, how tight should they be initially? [links]
Seems like they should be loose before adjusting the front mounts as far as stress on the transom plate but once you tighten them, you'd throw the alignment off. Confused.
Also, what's the purpose of the spring washer that sits inside the fiber washer. here
As you can see, motor mounts perform some very important tasks, yet they rarely get any attention for their work.
“If solid mounts will be used, they should be used in all locations,” he said. “If one mount is flexible and the others are not, this flex point may cause broken parts such as a bellhousing. Again, we recommend solid mounts for race apps only!”
On the opposite end of the scale from rubber mounts, are solid engine mounts. There’s no rubber or polyurethane involved, so these all-metal mounts are the least forgiving. Because they create a metal-on-metal connection, they permit the most vibration and noise. However, they also transfer the most amount of power to the wheels because they flex very little under load. Pritts says solid mounts should be used only for competition because of the vibration and noise factors. [links]
How motor mounts work
One end of the system bolts to the engine, and the other end is secured to the vehicle frame or subframe. Along with holding the engine in place, the motor mounts have another equally important function: They isolate the surrounding steel from all the vibration and shaking going on as the engine makes power. The motor mounts simultaneously hold things down and allow for movement. Save for a few very fancy viscous fluid or hydraulic type systems, most motor mounts accomplish this feat with just two metal parts bonded together with a rubber insulator in between. The rubber holds the two metal mounting points together and also allows for a small amount of movement while absorbing engine vibration and preventing it from reaching the rest of the vehicle.
The job
Follow the steps below for some handy tips for replacing engine mounts. Inspecting and replacing worn or broken engine and transmission mounts will help the rubber meet the load.
Larger engines will require a jack and various blocks of wood in order for you to check for broken motor mounts. If a broken or cracked mount is found, chances are the others have been overstressed and are on their way out as well. Also keep in mind that, along with the usual two engine mounts, there is a third cousin, the transmission mount. [links]